[charlie]

There are some very strange prices on that site. There has been a Shay Rotogardener which keeps reappearing listed at a starting price of £1000. The seller has been told on more than one occasion he has decimal point in wrong place.

[charlie]

Geoff, yes e bay is probably the best option as there will be a wide audience. Current lockdown rules may be a problem regards collection though.

[charlie]

A quick google of those sizes shows they should be readily available.

[charlie]

Neil Jarrett is the man you need to contact, ransomes256 on this forum.

[charlie]

Welcome to the forum. What size tyre do you need? I have used Micheldever Tyres in the past for hard to get tyres.
Do you have any photographs of your Floataire truck?

[charlie]

Mmmmm thinking aloud, Trusty book 3, Trusty Restoration Guide!!?????

[charlie]

I never took part in YTS but remember them. We think of 1980 as not long ago, forgetting it is now 40 years ago!
Back in the early 1970’s I spent school holidays and weekends working on a farm, virtually no thought about safety, tractors without any roll over protection, MF65, MF135, and Fordson Super Major. It was an accident the farmer had when he hit a gate post with the front wheel of one of the tractors that taught me to never put my thumb inside the steering wheel. When he hit the gatepost the steering wheel spun round and almost ripped his thumb off. A painful and graphic lesson.

[charlie]

The club has to put the health and welfare of members first, 100% the right decision. Looking forward to 2021.

[charlie]

Geoff you have come to the right place as the VHGMC hold the factory records and I am custodian of them.
933318 was despatched on 21-8-59, dealer was Weeks, and machine was delivered on 11-9-59 to D W Crampton, Cavershaw House, London Road, Ditton, Kent.
If you need any help with the machine please let me know your e mail address via personal message on this website. I have owners manuals which include parts lists.
The original engineering drawings are held at Museum of English Rural Life (MERL) in Reading.

[charlie]

It sounds as if you have done just about everything you need to obtain a registration. It can be a bit hit and miss with DVLA, read the FBHVC newsletters and you will see some of the problems people have had with vintage cars. Hopefully if you are happy to have a Q plate all should be good.
Note, you cannot drive a motor vehicle on a footpath, bridleway of restricted byway. You can only drive on roads, Unclassified County Road (UCR) and Byway Open to All Traffic (BOAT). I am not sure what category motorised street sweepers fall into to allow them to be driven/used on pavements (footpaths).

[charlie]

My eldest boy has been following Bad Obsession Motorsport and their Project Binkey on You Tube, actually a good series which I would recommend. They are avid users of the step drill in their many fabrications.

[charlie]

The only markings on the roller bearing that needed replacing were MRC 204S. After measuring the bearing and a search on the internet I found this was a metric sized bearing 6204. Measuring the balls from the freewheel showed them to be 3mm. Replacement bearings were ordered from Simply Bearings and arrived within a few days,very good service.
The new roller bearing was pressed onto the freewheel mechanism using a press. The old bearing had been removed using a split bearing removal tool, as it abuts the case of the freewheel.
Re-assembly of the freewheel was fun, a small amount of grease was used to hold the balls and spacers in place and a bit of wire was bent to shape and used to hold the pawls in place while the freewheel was assembled.
With the bearings replaced it was time to reassemble everything. One point to watch is the oil feed hole on the rear roller axle which must align with the hole in the frame where the filler tube screws in, see photo. The cotter bolts must be put in their respective holes before side frame can be fitted.
I found the easiest way to get the chain back on was to feed a length of thin wire in from the cutting cylinder sprocket to the rear roller then attach the chain to the wire and pull it into place. Then remove the wire and feed it in from the rear roller towards cutting cylinder and pull the chain through and join it up.
With everything bolted up one job to remember to do is fill the rear roller centre section with oil and you are ready to go.
I hope anyone needing to take a JP mower apart finds this article useful.

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[charlie]

Whilst I had the rear roller out I decided to strip the centre section which contains gears to increase speed of the cutting cylinder. Removing the four machine screws that hold the two halves together showed the benefit of leaving penetrating fluid to soak in. With the tried and tested combination of heat, hammer and penetrating fluid I managed to get three of the four screws out. The fourth however was not having any of it, even using the SDS drill on hammer action would not persuade it to move. So I left it soak with penetrating fluid overnight, I use Plus Gas. Next day and the screw came undone without too much effort, the benefit of the overnight soak.
The photo shows the gears inside the centre section of the rear roller. I think it shows the high level of engineering used on these mowers.

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[charlie]

The freewheel mechanism did not feel too smooth either so that was taken apart and revealed very badly pitted and worn balls.

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[charlie]

Now I could remove the rear roller, which revealed the first problem, one of the bearings had collapsed. The photo shows the state of the bearing and balls.

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[Author]

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