[vhgmcbuddy]

My original suggestion was based on the Showman’s original estimate of 1950s but I guess that we will have to wait until he revisits the depths of his shed!

[vhgmcbuddy]

What the showman describe would be the correct type tag for a Brigg made before the war. Possibly its off some military item. All my Briggs from the 30’s and 40’s used a brass tag held on by a rivet top and bottom. Its usually found on the front face of the blower housing. These tags either say the engine size ie A B Z K ZZ or have some number on them that was used by the original maker. The other number is usually the serial number of that engine. Without a picture it could be narrowed down by its head, which in the older models had enclosed cooling fins, and the later ones open cooling fins.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Normally stamped into the blower housing (BS for engine cowling) either horizontally adjacent to the spark plug or vertically on the back partly obscured by the carb. Not usually on riveted plate until much later intro of the Vanguard series of engine and they were a silver on black ally affair.

[vhgmcbuddy]

thanks guys for your responce.
next time iam up the shed i’ll take some photos of it.
it has a small brass plate riveted and i’am sure it only had the 2 numbers ,but will have another look, thanks again

[vhgmcbuddy]

ok thanks charlie

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ll stand to be corrected but with that model number it should fit the Model/Type/Code criteria; does it have those words any where?

These links may be of use
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qldis7mbh78cfwg/Briggs%20model%20id%20old%20and%20new0001.pdf

https://edgeta.com/techdata.htm

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank You Folks,

Yes, two versions of these decals believe it or not.. but give me a shout if & when needed!

Thanks,

Titch

[vhgmcbuddy]

To contact titch take a look at his fabulous website http://www.machinerydecals.co.uk

[vhgmcbuddy]

What wrist pin says is accurate for the majority of Briggs engines however there are some about with different numbering systems-pre early 1950’s also the 1962/3 141 range as fitted to howard 300’s. if you google vintage Briggs and straton eventually you will turn up a fan made page (haven’t looked for a couple of years) that will explain the earlier system.

[vhgmcbuddy]

TITCH is your man for all things BMB ,

[vhgmcbuddy]

Not sure about that serial number. Briggs Id is normally by model, type and code. Those words are usually stamped into the blower housing (cowling) and below each word there is a series of numbers. Your model number 207027 is good for a 20 cu inch engine with a horizontal crank,diaphragm carb and pneumatic governor,sleeve bearing,flange mounting and splash lube and 12v electric starter. The type number (missing)gives further mechanical and trim/spec details. Finally the code dates the engine to the day of production and shift or production line but your number may have a missing digit or may not be a code number at all! For argument let’s say it is 701009**. That would be 1970 , October the 9th with no line details.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I got a pair of BMB bonnet decals / transfers from Titch on this forum.
Im sure Charlie may be able to help with an operators manual on CD.
I too have a BMB Hoemate with finger bar mower,plough and cultivator attachments.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thankyou for all your messages. I will look into all the suggested ideas and reply to you after. I restored this mower to as near original as I could. I even went to the effort of having the original paint replicated to the perfect atco green of the 1930s era. The decals or labels whatever you want to call them, I had made for me locally as well. This mower has been in our family for the full 78 years of its life and the only mower we have owned as well. Better than the modern lot that goes wrong all the time. All we are missing is the grass box that my great grandad who is “103” says was (lost in WWII) somehow.
if anyone can post an image of what it looks like that will make my day.
I thought it needed restoring, it was looking a bit worn out.
Many thanks.
Daniel

[vhgmcbuddy]

As WP say’s about an ungoverned engine yes this is normal, put the machine into work cutting grass and the rpm would drop pretty quick then you will find that you would need to open the throttle to get it to cut, the heavier the work the more the throttle need’s to be opened, if the engine was a four stroke doing the same work it would be governed and the throttle would open it’s self dependent on initial throttle setting when under load, when not under load the rpm would be limited by the govenor, which you engine has not got hence the rpm get’s fairly high, the torque figure is higher at a lower rpm on the four stroke and it is normally quieter as well, because it can be run at a lower rpm figure.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I may be wrong with this suggestion , but could it be possible that the slide return spring is so weak that when the engine is running it gradualy alters the slide to full throttle on its own ?????

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