[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ve drawn a lite diagram of inside the carb. It’s a fairly simply one compared to car / bikes. The red bits are the plugs I’ve drilled out to check passages are clear and then resealed.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for the reply Wristpin I tested around the inlet manifold gaskets with WD40 but no change in engine note so looks like the new ones i fitted when i did the exhaust valve spring are all good.

Still convinced it’s a fault with the carb somewhere, Saturday morning again i stripped it down and this time put the housing in a pan of boiling vinegar for 15 mins, plus following the advise from the man in Amersham who sells numerous bits for the Ransomes Triple and seems to know a lot about them, i drilled out the 2 seals fitted to the carburetor after it was machined at manufacture. This should once an for all rule out any blocked air or fuel passages in the carburetor as i can now push a small piece of copper wire down every one to guarantee they are clear. I then drilled and tapped them with an M4 tap and super glued stainless bolts back to reseal them. It took me almost 3 hours including air lining and repeated spraying with carb cleaner and rechecking with a torch and air line that all passages were clear. I refitted it to the engine and it’s still got the same problem. !?!??

I then spent another 2 hours adjusting the governor and throttle cable positions as well as the throttle stop and idle mixture screw.

Whatever i seemed to do the engine runs at a good fast speed with the throttle butterfly in the carb fully shut. It runs on a bit and then after 20-30 seconds begins to die and is normally unrecoverable no matter how much you reopen the throttle. There must be fuel leak somewhere in the carb as with the throttle butterfly fully shut, only the idle or pilot jet should be allowing a tiny amount of fuel into the venturi in the carb. Only when you open the throttle butterfly does the main jet come in to play?

I’m going to draw a sketch of how the carb’s designed to try and better understand it.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Interesting comparison between A5 and 56. A5 very heavy on the miller end, to the extent that even on a very shallow setting for depth the rear weight bias makes it dig in too deep and you have to walk along pulling up on handlebars. I’ve seen some A series with wheels at the rear of the miller, presumably they are more effective. 56 on the other hand very well balanced, goes at the depth you’ve set with no bother. I’ve done a days work behind the 56 many times but half an hour with the A 5 is more than enough!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Weather held. Great first day. Now totally worn out. Will be there tomorrow with 56 and 35. Will try to remember to post photos but have to remember to take them first! Best bit was the hog roast bap with stuffing and apple sauce followed by donuts.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Andy, I will contact them and see how we go 😉

[vhgmcbuddy]

Loaded up 56 and A5 for tomorrow. Probably take 35 and 30 Sunday so should have made enough noise by the end of the weekend. What’s anyone else taking?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Also I have an issue with the “choke elbow” casting which has broken (see pics) has anyone come across this item in the past or is it one of those “hens teeth” items? Cant find anything similar online.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Good afternoon,

The Howard Clifford 700 also had a trailer attachment 15cwt.Capacity, a bucket attachment, Road Wheels,(10+mph) I used one in the 60s for landscaping new build gardens and it was fitted with pick tines for bricks left in customers garden.
It was and is the best machine of its kind. I used it with dozer blade, bucket and rotovator all piled into trailer to go from building site to building site in Ayrshire and around Glasgow.

I have a 700 under renovation with hatz diesel engine and would appreciate advice on start procedures.as mine both were petrol engines.

I have manuals, sales brochures, and operational procedures which I can copy if required.

Best regards
Ian.

[vhgmcbuddy]

All your attachments look stock items accept the saw bench. lucky you with all those bits and bobs. let me know if you have a spare clutch cable as i am down to a couple of strands on mine.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Some good news, at least you can mow !
Ultrasonic cleaning is the way to go but even that is not always successful. Borrowing another carb could be a way to go but I guess that they are few and far between . I’m sure that you have, but double check for air leaks between the carb and the inlet manifold and the manifold and the engine. If you have had to reuse existing gaskets a good smear of heavy grease or Vaseline on all mating faces is a good get out of trouble fix . Should also have said to check all mating flanges for flatness , especially any alloy ones that may have bowed due to over tightening in the past.
A way of checking for induction air leaks is, with the engine running, to spray or squirt WD , thin oil or Redex around the flanges and joints between the carb and engine. If there is a leak it will suck the stuff in and change note and make a bit of smoke.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I removed the valve access cover on the side of the engine and found a cracked exhaust valve spring. Removed the inlet and exhaust manifold and the head and replaced the cracked valve, rebuilt and the engine is running fine again, but still won’t idle if I adjust the tick over down it just stalls. I’ve reset the governor as per trusy220’s advise and still the same problem. Also I’ve still got the problem that the mixture screw on the carb has no effect on the running of the engine I can screw it all the was in and even remove it completely and the engine note doesn’t change a bit. I’m almost 100% convinced I’ve got a blockage somewhere in the carb but how else can I clean it apart from cutting it open?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes keep turning the flywheel nut.You will notice it becomes loose at first but keep on turning it and it will draw the flywheel of the taper.
Timing…..I set the points gap first.Then position the piston at TDC (there should be a scribed line or mark on the end of the crankshaft so that when its at 12 o clock the piston is at TDC).The alloy armature plate should have a timing mark on it and so should the face of the flywheel.Put the flywheel on the crank to align these marks then carefully tighten up the nut making sure the flywheel does not move !.Let us know how you get on.

[vhgmcbuddy]

hi charlie
lots! but i am on the disabled camping so a bit closer. i can bring what will fit on my 4 wheeled trolley together with a table to put it on so obviously no machines except maybe my ransomes lawn edger and a few tools etc.should be able to manage that and still have a reasonable display that won’t let the side down.
pete

[vhgmcbuddy]

Well SIMARs and Commer ready, all we need now is the weather. Hopefully forecast will prove to have been overly pessimistic. Otherwise might need a snorkel!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi,

How do I remove the flywheel to get to the points? I have removed all the tinwork etc, and have taken the cover off the points ( in a circular thing ) How do I remove the flywheel? I have taken out the bolt that held the pull cord assy on, but the flywheel doesn’t come off – I read that you have to tighten the bolt and it pulls the flywheel off the flange – is that correct? How do I ensure the timing isn’t altered? It’s not a Standard Fordson, that’s for sure!!

Laine

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