[vhgmcbuddy]

So who does have the oldest one in the club – Charlie, as I dont think its you or Mr Dyer at the moment
All the best HDtrust

[vhgmcbuddy]

count me in would be lovely to see my old simars working andy

[vhgmcbuddy]

I am hoping to attend with three Ransomes wheeled machines on the basis that these will be exhibited inside tracks, being banned from the exhibition floors.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks, I’ll give them a try.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Ask Paul at Meetens.
http://www.meetens.co.uk

[vhgmcbuddy]

Unfortunately, I haven’t got any felt washers left. I knew I should have got more made at the time!

The manual advises engine oil should be SAE30 if using during the winter and either SAE40 or SAE50 for summertime. Make sure it is detergent free.

[vhgmcbuddy]

By coincidence got my entry in the post yesterday. I’ll be there making a load of noise as usual! Probably bring the latest acquisition (SIMAR 50) and if I can get longer ramps organised the Howard Hatz Gem.
This is a really good start to the working event season. Well worth a trip for those of you further away. Can’t recommend it highly enough.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for that Sean – very helpful.
If you wanted to sell a couple, do let me know.
Also, what oil would you use for the Trusty, as mine looks like it needs changing?

Many thanks

Ben.

[vhgmcbuddy]

An update on the Menshed Iseki KS280 – We have now had it running. Took a while to get it to go, due to my many mistakes/misunderstandings/inadequacies relating to ignition timing. Timing marks are on outside of flywheel, which has to be removed to allow access to adjust points. We had no technical data as to points gap, just some general books on mainly motorcycle maintenance we were using to try & figure it all out. Eventually someone suggested using a dial test indicator on piston to measure where TDC and firing mark were then disassembling and using those measurements to allow proper timing. Multi meter on points allowed us to find when they broke circuit, Worked a treat. throttle cable was damaged and stuck, so no throttle control (suspected governor but seems fine now clean) still to retry since replacing cable.

[vhgmcbuddy]

The felt washers were made by Ram Gasket Solutions (www.ramgaskets.co.uk). I had 10 made, which cost £4.24 each plus £18 postage & packing. Their works order number was S/43592, if it makes it easier for them to trace.

Hope this helps,

Sean

[vhgmcbuddy]

Iain
The track drive rollers are intended to run completely dry with no grease as this will retain grit and wear away the spindles, the manual instructs that if they become stuck with mud etc that you tap them with a hammer until free, not sure of the timespan of wear but if you are tracking distances pulling timber it may be significant.
Jonathan

[vhgmcbuddy]

No problem Sean. Happy to help – I certainly learnt a lot from your Norton Trusty restoration which was extremely interesting to follow.
I believe mine is 1947, perhaps yours is older?

Out of interest do you remember where you got your trusty wheel felt washers made? Was it RH Nuttall? I need to get a pair and if I use a company who has done them before it might be easier.

Many thanks, Ben.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Ben,

The oil filler/dipstick arrangement on your engine is different to mine. As you can see in the attached photo, on my engine the oil filler is directly below the magneto, but yours is on the timing case. I am guessing that one of our engines is a later version.
The manual for the engine states that the sump capacity is 3 pints, so I will drain it and then refill with 3 pints. I can then measure the depth myself and make a suitable dipstick.

Thanks for taking the time to help.

Sean

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Ok, unless I am missing something here, it looks like the filler cap and dipstick are two different things in my Douglas engine.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi, I’ve tried to pay mine, but unsuccessful. Clicked on single membership, but it does not take you anywhere. Also does not advise how much. Please can someone point me in the right direction, thank you.

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