[vhgmcbuddy]

I have a belle mixer but it is a mixer to go on the back of a tractor powered by the PTO shaft. It’s in great condition if there’s any one interested in it.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Ok, I shall try stuffing cord in the cylinder.

If the flywheel shifts slightly on the shaft unless fully tightened, how can I be sure that I have the timing right before I tighten the flywheel fully?

If I try turning the engine over before I fully tighten, then the flywheel might shift, so I have to go through the procedure again.

But if I fully tighten the flywheel and then turn it over, and then find the timing needs adjusting, I have to go through the whole procedure again, complete with fully tightening.

Is there an easier way to determine that all is right before tightening?

Or am I doing just too much thinking again?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you Charlie, That makes it easy, I am happy now that I understand the plate layout, I shall go down the barn with a bit of cardboard and measure up! Regards Plonker

[vhgmcbuddy]

Many thanks Chris and Charlie. On having a closer look I discovered that the shaft was slightly greasy and very smooth and shiny. I gave it a light rub with fine wet and dry and cleaned it and the coupling etc with solvent. Put the flywheel back on and seems to be a lot tighter. I watched the video link and used a socket and hammer to drive the coupling home and retightened the grub screws. So far its ok. I did notice a hairline crack in the coupling but it wasnt at the holes for the grubscrews. Will probably try and source a new one in case it fails.
Many thanks again
Alasdair

[vhgmcbuddy]

Here’s a pic now I have got it all out in the open air today

[vhgmcbuddy]

I was hoping someone who had bought one recently could give me an idea of what price to list it at. Searched all going web sites on the scythe and model number but can’t find any others for sale at all. Just pictures of it. Seems finding one is a rarity and I will have to guess price it accordingly. Cheers

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Charlie.

What’s the best way to stop the crank from moving when you do this?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello Chris,
Thanks I didn’t know it was called a taper lock coupling. I replaced the engine with a Loncin G200f-p as it was cheap so I could get the rotovator in action while I source a new exhaust valve for the Briggs. It is a Honda copy with a 3/4″ shaft which I checked and its correct. The engine fitted perfectly and has the same dimensions etc as the old Briggs. When I removed the flywheel I removed the allen grub screws but the flywheel was seized on and required some force to remove. I don’t think anything has been removed since new as when I changed gearbox oil I found the paint was still intact around the drain valve. The flywheel seemed tight when I replaced it but is tending to travel very slowly to the end of the shaft. I did also use the new key that came with the shaft which may be slightly different. It was longer but seemed to fit perfectly. Is there a special way of refitting using the two other holes in the coupling to tighten it before using the grub screws? As a last resort I was thinking of using a drop of thread lock on the shaft to see if it can hold it in place.
Thanks
Alasdair

[vhgmcbuddy]

Think you need to check the ignition timing again as it sounds like the flywheel has moved on its taper / crankshaft.Be sure to tighten that captive flywheel nut otherwise it will loosen / slip (even more so if the main bearings are worn)!.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you for that, I appreciate it, I have some thread gauges, so when I am allowed to drive again and I have two arms again, I will go down the barn and check.

Regards Plonker

[vhgmcbuddy]

Well, all part of thinking too much, I was very dubious as to how to do what you said, but… you guys are amazing!!

I did exactly what you said and I got a spark. I put the plug in and she fired up. Straight to it. No strangler open, no flooding of carb, but throttle wide. She turned over for maybe 4 or 5 seconds and then died. Subsequent tries she fired for less time each time and by the fourth or fifth try I just got one massive backfire with a foot long flame out the exhaust.
So now I need to adjust something I guess…..Suggestions will now be treated with reverence!
Thanks so much.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Yes, there are 3 threaded holes in the underside of the engine cowling. Can’t remember what size the thread is, but they are metric.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Andy – 5/32″ BTDC – I understand to be 5/32″ of the stroke in a vertical sense, so with spark plug out and a stick in, I have one line marked on the stick where the piston reaches the top of stroke TDC – and a line marked 5/32″ above that where the spark should happen.
But what I am finding is that the points seem to be open for most of the flywheel revolution and only close briefly. I don’t understand how the flywheel shaft that moves the points can be circular, except for a small flattened area. The flattened area is where the points get a chance to close, but otherwise are held open. And if or when the governor kicks in, it completes the circular part where the flat part is, keeping the points open all the way round.
And yet the spark is only formed when the points open briefly.
Well, that’s how it works on the landrover. Is this system fundamentally different?
In addition to which, when the points are just opening the points are behind one of the three ‘spokes’ of the flywheel and so I am unable to adjust the gap.
I am mighty confused.
Robin

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for taking the trouble to photo it for me, very helpful, it is different, but still seems to be simple to fabricate from what looks like 3/8″ plate,I assume there are threaded hole alrady under the engine for this plate to bolt on? I cant get to mine at the moment because I have one arm in a sling and cant drive! Regards Plonker

[vhgmcbuddy]

So, pre-2000 models seem to be RAL6025 Fern Green apparantly, not convinced

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