[vhgmcbuddy]

Update :

Now fixed. Another working transaxle fixed it. 100£ ebay.
Slight issue selecting neutral now but that must be
simple adjustment on the nut on the bar but
I simply could not be doing that and gonna rain
tomorrow so had to cut.brake and clutch adjusted ok.
All good.
Nothing in manual anyway about gear selection adjustment.

Thanks for help on here. Much apprexiatee.

My broken transaxle still need to be fixed however !
– broken drive shaft. Being main issue.

Q) with your even more vintage machines
when they break if no parts how do you fix ?

You see this mower is not only a machine but a friend now
and must be saved at all costs.
How would you on your old machines fix a broken
drive shaft ?

Scrap heap surely is not an option for these old machines.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi, I think this is an earlier version to the type 5. Looks like it was later revised to a ball bearing – not a good sign for my engine 🙂

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’ve got a parts book for the JAP 600cc side valve Mark111 type 5 and the only place I can find a bearing with loose rollers is “timing side roller 15 “. You say drive side and your image shows 18 rollers! The driving side shows a normal ball bearing.
So I guess that either I’m looking in the wrong place or even the wrong version of the engine ?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Ted 20. Definitely motorbike tyres then. You might all wonder why I haven’t bought some from George at Villiers – he’s out of stock due to supply problems related to Coronavirus.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Some years ago I worked on potato trials and if we had a variety we wanted to plant but didn’t have enough seed we would cut spuds in half to make up a full plot. As long as there was a vigorous shoot on each half it seemed to work OK. I seem to remember in extreme cases we may have even cut some in to four!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Andy,
I am sure the fuel needle is all the way down.
There is a bigger end diameter that is up against the circlip already.
So I cannot lower anymore?
Steve

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for the comments Wristpin, Charlie and Andy.
I have not removed the flywheel yet, I decided to check the carb again as Andy suggested.
The jet at the bottom of the float bowl seemed ok, I removed it blew out and checked the passageway with a piece of wire and was clear.
The fuel needle seemed free and the carrier it is attached too sliding up and down the keyway no problem.
I ran the engine again. It seemed to run a bit better.
The mixture screw I set at 1 and half turns undone.
With no throttle on I screwed the adjusting screw on the main jet until it was nearly at its lowest point this natural slowed the engine running speed to an acceptable tick over without racing away and not to slow that it was trying to cut out.
Now if I open the throttle lever the engine speed did pick up but to me didn’t seem smooth. If I left the throttle open it did hold a higher running speed. but if I released the lever it stayed at the higher speed?..but the cable had returned the needle.
If I manually pulled the cable on the carb it increased the speed and if released it slowed down?..
It seemed to be giving a bit of black smoke as if too rich mixture?
I removed the plug which was sooty also indicating too rich?
Strange I could not seem to get it to settle or accelerate correctly?
Can the magneto timing be upsetting the smooth acceleration and return to idle speed as if it’s not firing at tdc?
Thanks again for any advice or sequence of checks or adjustments to try
Steve

[vhgmcbuddy]

Only just found messages . Thanks. Will do.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Possible parts supply. Have you tried the guy that I private messaged you about ?

[vhgmcbuddy]

P.s :
– could not get the casings back together to store.
Not a fault but simply cannot get it back together.
Has two small ball bearings too that can drop out.
This will have to wait , be cleaned out re greased
IF
I can get a drive shaft for it.

I think the answer to that is – not a chance!

Q) not that I am going down this route but if I was an
obsessive and wanted this transaxle back working
is it possible ?
Are there co panies that repair , re build or make
de9ve shafts ?
(I’d just like to know for when all parts si only run out
when I am 186 years old )

[vhgmcbuddy]

Transaxle casings split and issues found:

Summary:

Torx head bolts – were set to 6-7nm torque
No stuck bolts or stripped threads. Good case surfaces.

Broken brake pad metal guide / spacer (49) (as per pic)
(dana part num 5036)

No gasket used just remnants of instant gasket.

Broken drive shaft at end 37 (dana part num 3997) as per pics

Need to know:

– spec for brake pads thickness

– Where to get parts (Have contacted Murray and Hayter)

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[vhgmcbuddy]

your tyre fitter is talking rubbish I get my tyres from China Parts at Burnopfield, co Durham who do an excellent mail order and they are very close tread pattern and have no problem fitting myself

[vhgmcbuddy]

Many thanks for advice. They are soaked in pen’ oil
and they all seem to have hex heads.
I mechanicallu restore vintage 70’s 80’s motorbikes
so am armed with all necessary for stubbornness!

Points taken though.

Might delve into transaxle today.
What on earth could cause the issue I am seeing though
internally ..?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Just caught up with this thread. Forget my comments about splines – your pulley is keyed!
A word to the wise when you attempt to open the ‘box. The two halves of such ‘boxes are often held together with “taptite” screws. That is ones that cut their own threads on initial assembly. Over time, the interaction between the steel screws and alloy castings can make them difficult to remove. Time and care spent getting them out is better that later attempting to deal with sheared screws.
If they resist initial reasonable force a little localised heat around each one may be useful together with some proper penetrating fluid such as Plus Gas – not the dreaded WD !

[vhgmcbuddy]

I thought that was the case. Thanks for that, did you fit them yourself?

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