[trusty220]

Have you tried a bigger hammer?

With the sleeve out it would be worth pouring some acid down the hole so that it soaks directly into the parts that need to be freed off. I’d still try to soak the rest as well, it can only be corrosion that is holding it.

Best of luck.

[trusty220]

It looks like the side pieces are made from aluminium. Could you use heat to try to move them- aluminium expands more than steel- but the chances are that the electrolytic action between the two different metals has fused them together.

If heat doesn’t work I would try the brick acid soak for a few days. It should eat into the corrosion and hopefully free up the cotters in the frames with an added bonus that it will de-rust the steel parts as well. The only trouble is that I haven’t used acid on aluminium, so you may want to monitor it closely (and put it outside because it gives off Hydrogen Sulphide- bad eggs- which can be harmful). Make sure that you soak the parts in a dilute solution of bicarbonate of soda afterwards to neutralise the acid as well.

Don’t blame me if it all ends in tears!

[trusty220]

Welcome to the forum- it’s always good to see new faces (and machines!).

There a quite a few of our club members who have Howard experience and so I’m sure that they will give you plenty of help and advice when the time comes. By the way- that looks like a well looked-after Gem that looks like it’s been cleaned down after every use. I wish they were all like that!

Best of luck with it.

[trusty220]

I’ve been out with the Trusty Road Roller already to make sure that it’s ready for the road run. It’s now running cleaner with a genuine replacement throttle linkage and I’ve been doing a bit of research on it’s history, with a few surprises being turned up, but I’ll fill you in on those when I get there.

Looking forward to it already!

[trusty220]

test4

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[trusty220]

test3

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[trusty220]

If you’re going to Weeley with it this year I’ll remember to bring my ear defenders. I’m glad you’ve got to the bottom of it.

[trusty220]

Another test.

[trusty220]

Another picture by way of a test.

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[trusty220]

When approaching a job like this the best policy is to try to dismantle the assembly carefully to preserve any bearing and seal identifying numbers. Most bearing suppliers will be able to match bearings and oil seals if you can give them something to start with.

If you can’t read any numbers off the items, try measuring the hole that the bearings fit into, the shaft size and width of the bearing; a good bearing supplier should be able to find a match from these dimensions.

Best of luck with it.

[trusty220]

It’s a shame that one or two people can spoil it for the rest, but there really isn’t much we can do to stop the type of spammer that we were plagued with recently.
They signed up as normal, were processed normally then proceeded to send annoying private messages to members on the website. If the PM service is open to abuse in this way we have no choice but to suspend it until we can find some way around it.

[trusty220]

I’ll bring the Trusty Road Roller if you’ll let me! Looking forward to it already.
Geoff

[trusty220]

There is always the Jones company that made balers and forage harvesters in the 1950’s- not quite horticultural, but close.

How about the range of engines made in South Wales? They copied the design of the early Honda engines; they were sold under the “Rhonda” trade name!

Well, I thought it was funny…..

[trusty220]

Try contacting Andrew Watson who runs the Motor Roller Register.

His contact details can be found on the Road Roller Association’s website. Give him my regards!

Best of luck.
Geoff Ravenhall

[trusty220]

It certainly has lifted the presentation of the magazine and the reproduction quality of the photographs, which is what we were hoping for.

Altogether a vast improvement- what does everyone else think?

[Author]

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