[trusty220]

Another great issue from Will Haggle, but don’t forget that it’s contributions from club members that go to make it up. Without your articles The Cultivator would not get off the ground, so (I’m sure Alan will agree) please keep them coming, the more the merrier!

[trusty220]

You would do best to ask him yourself, I haven’t spoken to him about it.

[trusty220]

WooHoo, I’ve done it, and it looks like I’ve saved myself some money as well!

The Trusty Registers are now up-to-date, as is the Ransomes MG Register, so those of you who were waiting for me to look up the new dates can now find their machines details on the Survivors tab.

Alan- I didn’t realise you were a pork pie aficionado; coming from God’s Own County (Yorkshire) I would expect you to be a world authority on Black Pudding, flat caps and Whippets, and look down on us lowly mortals who have to make do with pork pies (whether they’ve got an egg in or not).

Either way, thanks for the offer of help. Have a good evening.

[trusty220]

It seems that I’m having a bit of trouble uploading the new listings for the 2-wheeled Trusty register, so you’ll have to be patient a little longer whilst I work out what I’ve done wrong!

Alan……….???

[trusty220]

There is no other written work on Trusty- that’s why I wrote the book!

The best thing to do is to buy a JAP 5 book off a well-known auction site; the original, official book has set-up instructions for the carburettor and magneto as well as a full parts listing and dismantling/rebuild instructions for the engine. Otherwise, if you need more help with the Trusty bit you can look out for the Trusty Tractor Parts List which does surface from time to time on the same site and , of course, you can search through postings on this forum for information on how to do various things. It’s been going long enough that there should be something about everything to do on a Trusty.

Once you’ve got it going you could do with a few tips from the Trusty Operator’s Manual; this you can get as a reprint from (I think) Japonica Press.

Engine parts for your JAP 5 should be easy to get hold of. Try Meetens Industrial Engines as a first port of call. One thing that I do whenever I can is to buy old and redundant engines at farm sales so that I have a stock to keep my fleet running.

Parts for the Trusty bit are generally not available. Bearings and bushes can be bought from your local bearing supplier, Whitworth and BSF bolts can still be bought from most suppliers, but apart from that you have to make or repair anything else. That’s what makes it a challenge!

Best of luck with it, and don’t forget that we will help whenever we can.

[trusty220]

Yes, that’s the early type carburettor which I haven’t had much success with. I haven’t found anyone that can supply parts for it but yours may be repairable if it hasn’t got anything missing.

If there are parts missing I would look for a Zenith carb and manifold which should bolt straight on. You will need different throttle linkages as well, so if you can have a look at some else’s set up that would be the best advice I could give.

[trusty220]

If it has had the early JAP carburettor fitted you will need a different inlet manifold to suit the Zenith. This has a horizontal flange fitting with two bolts. If I remember correctly the JAP carb has a sleeve type fitting and a pinchbolt to tighten it around the fitting.

[trusty220]

It may have had the early type JAP carburettor fitted; this has “JAP” cast into the aluminium barrel of the float chamber. They aren’t too good and are a little erratic (you can set it up to run fine with a lovely slow tick-over, then you rev it up and it somehow loses it’s settings); parts are not available for it either.

By far the best carb to use on it is the Zenith 24T-2 which is common to a lot of other engines and is easy to set up. You can get the parts from most of the regular suppliers and it holds it’s settings without the need to keep re-tuning it every five minutes (Bill Gates take note- why can’t you design software that doesn’t need to be continually updated?).

[trusty220]

That type of machine has been very popular in Europe for quite a few years. For those of you in the groundcare trade you will undoubtedly recognise the basic chassis as the one used/copied on the Verti-Drain series of deep spikers which are very popular over here at the moment.

[trusty220]

It does sound like the mixture is too rich. With a four stroke this would tend to produce black smoke (soot) but I haven’t come across a two stroke being run for too long on a rich mixture because they tend to oil the plug up. The extra oil being drained off afterwards would also point to too much mixture going through.

What colour is the plug? This would give you the best clue as to what’s going on.

[trusty220]

A great weekend with excellent weather and a wonderful social atmosphere- everything that being part of a club is about. I can’t thank everyone concerned enough for the hard work in organising it so that it went off without a hitch, and even more thanks are due to Dave Weeley and his family for putting up with us for two days and letting us make a thorough mess of his one field!

A few photo’s of the weekend- feel free to post more if you’ve got them.

Attachments:

1. 
2. 
3. 
4. 
5. 
6. 
7. 
8. 
9. 

[trusty220]

Me too! Trailer already loaded, hotel booked, looking forward to it. See you all there!
Geoff

[trusty220]

I’ve been doing a little homework since this morning and it appears that the pin with the thread on is inserted into a blind hole in the casting, the shaft is then fed through it’s hole then a sleeve is put onto the threaded part of the pin and everything is drawn up tight with the nut.

You may have loosened the one that you’ve been working on sufficiently but you will have to do the same with all of the others to get the side plate to move enough to get the roller out. A shame that they are in blind holes and you can only get to one side.

[trusty220]

Let us know what you find out, Charlie.

It may help if you could post a photo of the underside of the frame to show the other end of the fixing that you’ve removed. If the thread is loose in the hole it’s more likely to be a two-piece collet with a bolt going through them to draw them together and clamp them on the shaft. A sharp tap on the thread (once you’ve protected it by winding the nut back on) should push the bolt out of the lower collet, with the added advantage that if I’m wrong (and Angus is right) it will do the same job!

[trusty220]

If you want to do a blog about restoring the Gem your best option is to start a new post in the “Projects” section; there are plenty more in there and so you will be in good company.

[Author]

Posts