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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 40 total)
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  • #37520
    mickwhitt
    Participant

    Hi and thanks for the reply.

    The machine is not complete so I will be making collars etc to carry the cylinder i have to sharpen. Also any guides etc that might be needed.

    I’m hoping to find a copy of the instructions or at least a scan of them so I can set it up correctly.

    Does the cylinder turn against an indexing stop which is fitted at the side of the grind stone? I have a tool and cutter grinder that sharpens spiral Mills in that way.

    I’ve never looked at the blade geometry of a cylinder and bottom blade so getting the angles right will be my priority.

    My email is mickseven9@yahoo.co.uk if you need to mail me direct with any answers to my wondering. It would be good to learn from someone who knows the nachine well.

    Best regards Mick

    #37285
    mickwhitt
    Participant

    OK the faults I suspected were borne out by replacing the carb, replacing the warped air filter housing and straightening the throttle bracket.
    These actions cured the problems and I now have an engine that runs beautifully.
    The carb had been messed with and the pilot screw anti tamper cap had been forced off, most advice was to replace the carb rather than try to replace this screw. And cost wise it was a good idea.
    I replaced the cutting head with an alloy one from husqvarna with fixed 4mm square line. It cuts like a demon. Picked up a 122m spool of 4mm line for £30 so I’m set for cutting.
    Thanks for the comments.
    Mick

    #37259
    mickwhitt
    Participant

    The governor seems to be functioning ok. But the engine will only run on full choke, not idle or run setting.
    The air inlet system for the pilot jet looks pretty critical and the seat face of the plastic air filter housing is warped so I suspect its letting in excess air. New housing on order.
    Also the metal throttle/choke mounting is bent all out of shape, so straightening that and ensuring proper operation may also reap rewards.
    There is tons of into on the web about the GCV135 engine as its a staple on lawn mowers.i will report any improvements in running.
    Mick

    #37251
    mickwhitt
    Participant

    Thanks for the information Wristpin.
    I’m not sure what is happening. Starts on choke and runs well but as soon as I drop the throttle lever to the Hare run position it runs poorly, very little difference between that and the Tortoise idle setting.
    Maybe just a carb clean is in order.
    I will do that and then look at the governor as I can’t see that having been disturbed.
    Best regards Mick

    #35300
    mickwhitt
    Participant

    Good news, my V5 came through today.
    In total it was about 4 months from first refused application, but the second upgraded application took 5 weeks which is just about pre covid timescale.
    As I said, year of manufacture is critical and the NOVA declaration.
    I put a really comprehensive information bundle together covering all the bases and negating any questions before they coukd be asked.
    If you need any info on what I sent email me, mickseven9@yahoo.co.uk

    #35289
    mickwhitt
    Participant

    Just applied for registration of a Wheelhorse tractor. Covid has put the brakes on everything and I’ve been waiting since April with no way of finding out whats going on.

    Biggest issue is date of manufacture, they are really pedantic about that.

    Also if it is an imported machine you will have to get a NOVA notification regarding VAT. Whether you imported it or not and no matter how long ago.

    Be prepared to wait and be disappointed 😞

    #34783
    mickwhitt
    Participant

    Hi all.

    What is the correct amount of SAE 30 oil to put in 5 litres of petrol for this engine?
    The manual is not clear as it shows a l- pint as a measure for 1 gallon of petrol.

    #34762
    mickwhitt
    Participant


    This is mine running today after the timing reset.

    #34760
    mickwhitt
    Participant

    Many thanks to those who posted advice on how to proceed, I know it wasnt my thread but I think we should both arrive at the same place.
    If the OP needs any help from my travails just give me a shout.

    Attachments:
    #34758
    mickwhitt
    Participant

    I have cracked it I think. I know it doesn’t sound as good as eureka but it’s the same feeling.
    I took the whole fan casing, fan and flywheel off this morning. Cleaned the points and set them to 14 thou.
    I used a depth gauge I made to measure from the plug hole to the piston crown, added 5/32 and that came to 20.63mm
    I then used that gauge to hold the piston while I set the points to just opening.
    When I rebuilt the cowling and fitted the fan the two arrows lined up absolutely bang on TDC.
    Two pulls is all it takes to start her now and she will start from hot or cold.

    Attachments:
    #34752
    mickwhitt
    Participant


    This is a you tube video of her running.

    #34751
    mickwhitt
    Participant

    I set my timing by measuring the piston 5/32 of an inch BTDC. I take it that’s right? I simply measured it using a caliper gauge, what is the best way to be accurate? Make a L shaped probe with the bottom part machined to 5/32?
    There were arrows and Mark’s on the alloy fan casing and flywheel but as I wasnt sure about them i didnt use them.
    George from villiers parts says its probably an ignition issue.
    I will check and reset the timing to rule that out before I start replacing things.

    #34745
    mickwhitt
    Participant

    Curiously I bought a Denso version of the plug that was in when I got it. And that might well be wrong as it was a garden ornament not a runner.
    I swapped back to the old plug and it runs, bit of popping back through the carb but it recovers and runs ok.
    Shakes like a tin outhouse which I guess is the cutter head, i took off the spring drive bar to cut drive to the blade and it runs fine. So it may be a carb issue as it doesn’t seem to respond quickly to cutting the throttle and coughs back through the intake when it does slow down.
    I’m.in the dark with these old 2 strokes, it could be running just right and I’m expecting too much of it. Then again I may be way off the mark on setting it up.
    I will try to get hold of an appropriate plug and may replace the HT lead as it’s a bit frayed at the plug end, still give a hell of a kick if I brush past it.
    I will carry on tinkering before I drag it to some grass lol. I live on a hill and dragging it back up without reliable engine power is quite hard.
    Mick

    #34738
    mickwhitt
    Participant

    Hi all.
    I seem to be having similar problems with my machine.
    It will start after 4 or five pulls from cold. It runs for a few minutes then dies and will not run till it cools down.
    Been playing with the carb but that doesn’t seem to make much difference.
    How would I get the coil tested?
    Villiers parts show it as a £75 part which is a bit much just to try.
    Mick

    #34004
    mickwhitt
    Participant

    Thanks gents, some very positive points there, I will await a reply from the people in Wales and report back to you.
    Going to fit a pair of mirrors a d a amber beacon as a just in case.
    I supplied just a out everything I could think of so we will see how it goes.
    Best regards Mick

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 40 total)