[disco2]

Hi Trusty thanks for the reply. I did as you suggested and found that the multiplug at the bottom of the voltage regulator was not pushed together properly the securing clip is broken . I pushed it back fully and ran the machine and it was showing an increase in charge so fingers crossed it’s fixed.
Thanks for your help and advice
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi it’s Will I thought I would share my happiness I have got the Petter running and it’s running perfectly 😁 it was as simple as the ignition timing was 180 degrees out so took of the mag and rotated the flywheel half a turn and re fitted the mag and it started up. One word of advice though make sure when ‘re fitting the mag that the little clip that holds the points cover on is not trapped between the mag and the valve chest because you have to take the mag off again to free the clip. I found out the hard way.
Thanks for your help and advice
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi Charlie thanks for your reply that’s really helpful. Reading through it definitely looks like the timing is out so I will pop the magneto off and have a go at resetting it. There is a click which seems to occur at the time the points open and there is also a tdc marking on the flywheel so fingers crossed it will start.
Thanks for your help and advice
Best wishes William.

[disco2]

Hi it’s Will I have just had a look and these are the numbers I can see. It’s a wico mag looks like 676B it could be a 5 not a 6 at the start but I can’t see it well enough to be certain. The engine is a Petter A1 3hp @ 1500rpm serial number 1522000. I had a look at the points opening times and it appears the points are opening with the piston a bottom mot top dead centre. If my understanding is correct they should be open just before tdc. So perhaps the mag has been off and re fitted half a turn out.
Thanks for your help and advice
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi Charlie thanks for your reply I will get those details later today.
Best wishes William.

[disco2]

Hi it’s Will I thought I would update you on the progress with the motor triple. I had it out today and cut about 4 acres it is working great and it’s nice to be munching through green healthy grass rather than the usual dry dusty stuff we normally have this time of year. Anyway I think I have found the reason for the uneven cutter heads. The two front units are clearly bent backwards from colliding with trees. The pins holding the A frames onto the chassis are both badly bent (not sure How I didn’t notice before) I imagine that because they are bent back they have caused the units to dip down as well. Not sure if I am going to be able to get them out because they are so bent.I will keep you posted .
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi Trusty thanks for the quick reply. That makes sense now I imagine that it wouldn’t take much to make the problem worse such as a collision with a tree or edging kerb. I did consider perhaps cutting through the triangular plate at the front where it is welded to the unit and ‘re welding it to effectively bring the front of the head up again. The other thing I noticed is that the 2 front units do not line up properly with the main frame it looks like they have been bent back again probably by hitting a tree.
Thanks for your help and advice
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi all hope everyone is well. I have been using the motor triple and it’s going great apart from a broken chain which was soon replaced. I do however had an issue with the cutting heights. The middle unit is set at about 3/4 inch and on the 3rd notch but to get the same on the front units I’m almost at the end of travel on the adjusters meaning if I want to go higher I can’t. It seems that the front units are possibly leaning down at the front but I cat see anything obviously bent or worn. I remember using a later hydraulic triple and if the mower unit pins were bent it would cause the same issue but the motor triple has an A frame so unless it was twisted it shouldn’t happen. I checked the a frame with a spirit level and it seemed fairly true. I wonder if anyone knows of a common problem with these units and if they can be straightened.
Thanks for your help and advice
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi it’s Will just a quick update I purchased the belt from simply bearings £25ish and it’s the correct size and fits perfectly. It looks well made and worked fine yesterday so we will see how it fairs. I would say if anyone needs one it’s definitely worth a go.
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi yes as you said the part number in the parts list is MBA4471 the A MBA4471 IS the number listed on the pix belt. It’s sold as a replacement for the Ransomes motor triple. I spoke to simply bearings who said they don’t have the dimensions but would measure them if I wanted. The belt to gearbox is an original it has the Ransomes name so I can check the width but I don’t know the length so I think I will order one and try it they said I can send it back if it’s not correct. I will let you know how I get on.
Thanks for your help and advice
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi it’s Will thanks for that I might give them a call to see if they can give me the dimensions. They call them an A MBA4771 which is the old Ransomes part number. The belt that’s on there now is about 4 mm narrower than the other belt on there. I imagine the 2 belts should be the same width and the narrow belt sits too deep in the pulley so explains why the engine is as far forward as it will go and the tensioner is fully adjusted and still too loose.
Thanks for your help and advice
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi it’s Will I found a company called L&s engineering they can get a clutch but it’s over a hundred pounds which is more than the machine is worth even If it’s running. I’m going to see if I can get the old one relined but it’s looking like a scrapper unfortunately.
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi all I have pretty much sorted the motor triple to a working machine it even has a working hand brake but it needs a new engine drive belt. The one that’s on there is too narrow so even fully adjusted the belt is too loose to work properly. I contacted Ernest Does for a genuine belt and they quoted £130 plus vat for a genuine one but then said you could just buy a non genuine one for £54. I have seen some on eBay for £38 and simply bearings do one with the correct part number for around £28 it’s a Pix belt. My question is what do I go for? £130 is a bit steep and even the man at Does advised against it so what should I go for I font want to pay more than necessary but I don’t want to go cheap and find it is no good. Any thoughts?
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi yes this is an electronic ignition one the friction linings have completely gone most of the lining is distributed as dust in the housing. I think it’s been used helicopter style as we used to call it. Too much line out and too heavy line as well so it’s destroyed the clutch.

[disco2]

Hi it’s Will I had another look at the discs and gave them a clean up with a file then some emery cloth trapped between the pads and disc while rotating the disc and they cleaned up pretty well. I took your advice and left the discs in situ I could see a disaster coming and it didn’t seem worth the risk. Got the last reel adjuster free now so it’s sort out a couple of belts and it should be good to go.
Thanks for your help and advice as always it’s much appreciated
Best wishes William

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