[charlie]

Mike I may have a drawing for the exhaust, let me know if you would like a copy.
Rather than pull the lead off push pliers tight onto cylinder head then whilst applying pressure touch them against plug top a lot less painful. That is how I stop my Trusty Earthquake.

[charlie]

Sounds good. What did you have to do to get it running?
Is that a Rototiller 35 I saw in the video

[charlie]

Do you have then cowling that goes over the flywheel and magneto assembly? If so a photo of that would help.
Any part numbers on the sump or engine block which you could tell us would help with identification.

[charlie]

And of course the mug (available here) we should all have in the workshop. I already have a T shirt with this on.

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[charlie]

The following flowchart is one I am sure most of us have seen but does fit in with previous discussion on here.

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[charlie]

Very interesting, never seen one of those before.

[charlie]

Could there be a spring that would go between the cup with chain and end cap missing?

[charlie]

A useful how to guide. There is something very satisfying about making repairs like this.

[charlie]

Good news. I have made various gaskets but never attempted a head gasket.

[charlie]

What’s the tractor in your profile image anyway? An Anzani maybe? In working order?
It is a Swiss made SIMAR rototiller. An ongoing project, the engine has had new crank seals (it is a 2 stroke) and a new big end roller bearing made, new cone clutch lining, magneto rebuilt and various other jobs. All paint and tin work are still original. It has run once but was a pig to get started so timing and fuel delivery need checking.

[charlie]

What’s the tractor in your profile image anyway? An Anzani maybe? In working order?
It is a Swiss made SIMAR rototiller. An ongoing project, the engine has had new crank seals (it is a 2 stroke) and a new big end roller bearing made, new cone clutch lining, magneto rebuilt and various other jobs. All paint and tin work are still original. It has run once but was a pig to get started so timing and fuel delivery need checking.

[charlie]

Over recent years I have noticed there is, or appears to be, a growing trend towards keeping machines original rather than the better than new restorations some seem to go for. As I remember someone saying to me, ‘its only original once’.

[charlie]

Another example of imperial threads still persisting. My neighbour brought round a fishing rod stand a couple of days ago, which he had managed to cross thread the end piece on. I found it was a BSF thread, I had expected a metric thread.

[charlie]

If only one head stud is damaged I would suggest using one of the others with a good thread to establish what the thread is. I have only worked on MK10,12,15 and 25 Villiers engines.

[charlie]

A full, good as new restoration with all new paint etc will be the most time consuming.
The minimum would be to repair and replace whatever is needed to get the Trusty running and working again. Which you choose will depend on what you plan to do with the Trusty eg use it as a working machine or a show only machine. I have to confess most of the machines in my collection are in working order but retain their original paint.

[Author]

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