[andyfrost]

Grahame , proper testing equipment is rare thesedays , and not many folk have them , I don’t actually own one myself , I rely on a good friend who happened to be the workshop foreman when I was a young lad. His is an old school tester , but is 100% reliable , incidentally it will not test the modern magnetron/electronic coil units. George is absolutely correct in what he says regarding testing with multimeters , yes you may find a circuit , but proper testers simulate what actually happens when you “load the coil up”. I note you use the word “PROBABLY” when you have tested with a multimeter , when done on a proper unit , there is absolutely no element of doubt.
I’ve had numerous people call me saying it tested OK using a MM , but still fails to start or run properly.
My advice would be to try and locate someone who has the proper eqipment , if that can’t be done George offers a service , and will advise of what you need and cost before going ahead , one other piece of advice , don’t but a MM especially for ignition testing , it will be a waste of hard earned , many folk have one(I don’t) , and I would be the first to admit that they have their uses , but not for magnetos

Andy.

[andyfrost]

I’ve lost count of the ammount of times that it has been said on here that magnetos can’t be PROPERLY tested using multimeters , To do it properly a purpose made ignition tester is required , that is afterall why they were made in the first place. George Shead at Villiersparts has interesting reading on his “ignition” page on his website , and expains why multimeters give false readings , and he certainly knows an awful lot about ignition systems.Myself , I’ve worked on them for over 50yrs and would NEVER trust multimeters.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Your man ripped you off over the carb cleaning , “usually” mine is only on for a 15min cycle , don’t worry about one with a fancy heater , I just boil the kettle and use ordinary fairy liquid , pop it in and it’s job done. With practice you can also add some drain unblocker liquid , but only a very small ammount , you will get the hang of it the more you use it.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Clockwise as you look at the flywheel.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

If you’ve got the old one , it’s a simple job to make one up , there are plenty of suppliers who sell the inner and outer cables.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Gib head keys are tapered , the idea , provided an amateur hasn’t been at it , is to knock the hub on further , heat may be needed , once you have moved the hub , the key should release relatively easily.
The difficult part may be if someone in the past has assembled it and pushed the hub fully on before tapping the key in.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

That is Howards own AC120 engine.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

We’ll need a photo to be able to tell you.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

I think George at villiersparts has them.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Yes , on the later ones.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

I’m confused now , it’s gone from “running fine” , to spitting back. Firstly get your carb ultrasonically cleaned , and go from there.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

If it was running fine , then highly unlikely you will need carb parts , yes parts are hard to find , but if you look after your machine , it should see your lifetime out……they’re that well built.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Have you tried George at villiersparts.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

It’s certainly a MK20 or 25 , it should be stamped on the cowling ID plate.

Andy

[andyfrost]

A picture paints a thousand words.

Andy.

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