New Engine for the Wizard

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  • #10462
    sidevalve44
    Participant

    Have just bought a new engine for the Wolseley Wizard Rotovator. It’s a Chinese built Honda GX160 5.5HP copy but badged Villiers. Seems to be well built and should fit straight on without too much effort. The Briggs, which was smoking well and starting to rattle and also struggled a bit on our clayey soil will be re-built at my leisure. In the mean time its carburetor and fuel tank will be fitted to my 1960 B&S Project engine as the original Flojet carb doesn’t want to play !
    Just one question. The suggested interval for the first oil change (on the Chonda) is 20 hours, I am inclined to think it would be a good idea to change the oil after the first 2 or 3 hours just to flush out any bits of dirt or swarf and then again after another 3 or 4 hours. Any suggestions ?

    #10463
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Good idea to change oil.chinese still a bit basic and may have some rubbish still in there.would you use fully synthetic, I have on a new m/c,would be fine and easier starting and should run better.

    #10464
    chap
    Participant

    I did mine after a few hours and only changed it once since after six+ years it runs fine not let me down yet, i may give it a treat over the winter 68 quid when i bought mine how much are they now?

    #10465
    wristpin
    Participant

    I see where you are coming from re flushing out out the crap but I think that even Chinese copy engines are built to far higher standards than say original Villiers were. I have it on good authority that Loncin who produce quality Honda copies have, and may still do, build engines for Honda and also build engines for a certain German motorcycle manufacturer with a three letter name!
    Also, something to bear in mind, is that the manufacturer’s initial oil fill may be a “running in oil” and if this is removed too soon and replaced with a top spec oil the bore may glaze and the rings may never bed in properly. The same goes for continuous light loading on a new engine.
    As far as the oil spec goes, the manufacturer will have researched the requirement for an air cooled engine and made a recommendation based on their findings so stick to this recommendation both in viscosity and specification eg Sae 30, SF/SG.
    Using fully synthetic in a horticultural engine may make you feel better but is reality is a total waste of money!

    #10466
    sidevalve44
    Participant

    Thanks for the comments chaps !

    Mine cost £117.00 delivered ! The sump is empty so, it is up to me to re-fill it. The handbook recommends 10W30. I may fill with a basic SAE30 for the first few hours use and then re-fill with a better quality 10/30. I’ll see what my local mower shop sells.

    By the way, the handbook is written in Chinglish so, I have downloaded a copy of the Honda one for better detail.

    #10470
    hillsider
    Participant

    Re choosing oils for use in Engines and oil change frequency I go along with Wristpins wise words re choosing the grades to use. If the engine manufacturer has done their job correctly and (and most do) the handbook will contain a list of oil grades and specifications that are suitable for use in the engine. If this advice is followed then the cost of using a good quality oil will be repaid in engine life.

    Re using the handbook from a different engine manufacturer to the one that information is saught for is a bit of a lottery and not something that I would advise, even if they do look similar they may have differring needs.

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