[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Charlie,

The fuel was fresh, I put it in only a few minutes earlier.

[vhgmcbuddy]

This is all a bit of an experiment, since I have not done this before. Maybe you are right, and I need a cabinet, and/or a pressure fed gun. But first I’d just like to see what I can achieve with just the hand held gun. If it’s ineffective, or uses too much media, I will consider subcontracting the sand blasting, or buying a cabinet.

Thanks – Rowan

[vhgmcbuddy]

No cabinet? So unless you are contemplating a dedicated blasting room or confined area where you can scoop up the used media for reuse it will be a total loss operation and appropriately expensive. In the circumstances that you have outlined you would probably need a blasting pressure pot to contain the media fed by a sizeable compressor to a pressure fed gun.
I think that you need to investigate and define what you can afford in terms of space, capacity and cost, versus what would be better farmed out.
You mention the possibility of doing railings etc . An acquaintance of mine does a lot of that sort of work using a trailer mounted road drill compressor . He recently did all the internal beams in an old timber framed house – family moved out, house emptied,
and a week’s work . Then fifteen tons of media to shovel and vacuum out of the house – another week’s work.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for the advice, I will remove the head bolts and clean accordingly.

The coil, points and condensor are all brand new and the valves were ground in and gapped at .010″ex and .008″in (no data for Aspera so, I used B&S figures) so, these shouldn’t be a problem.

By the way, what should the torque figures be for the cyl head bolts ? My B&S repair book states 140lb/in. So I am guessing it should be the same for a Tecumseh.

[vhgmcbuddy]

As a rule you should not lubricate head bolts – certainly not with Copperslip or similar. Many engine manufacturers will specify dry threads or, as in the case of BS, lightly oiled which is defined as a squirt of oil, wiped round with a paper towel to spread it and then remove all all surplus.
Not only does lubrication of head bolts encourage slackening but also makes a nonsense of initial torque settings. Also, the use of Loctite or similar thread locking compounds can have a similar effect resulting in the torque wrench not cracking off until after the stretch point of the bolt.
There are all sorts of differing opinions on this and a bit of Googling will bring up some interesting reading.

Back to your initial query, don’t rule out an ignition issue ranging from just dirty or maladjusted points to a failing condenser or coil. Don’t forget VICTOR – Valves, Ignition, Carburettor – in that order.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for your reply. Yes, I understand not to use sand. The parts I’m thinking of blasting are rusty parts of machines, e.g. a mower, a space heater, an air compressor, a power hacksaw, a lathe. I may also have a go at the rusty fence outside my home. I was thinking of not buying a cabinet, just the hand held gun, and doing the work outdoors. I can wear an air fed mask. So what are the rps and cons of gravity feed, syphon feed and pressure guns for this sort of use? Is there anything I should watch out for? Doe sit need to have replaceable jets? Does it need to have jets in a range of sizes?

Thanks – Rowan

[vhgmcbuddy]

For a start, no sand, silicosis.
Cabinet size, what sized parts do you have in mind?
Bench mounted or free standing? Top or end loading
That will affect the sized compressor that you need – you can never have too much air.

Now to practicalities. I mess about with domestic mowers and have a cheapish Sealy bench mounted with home made additional dust extraction – a Henry vac with a cheapo Chinese cyclone interceptor to protect it. Additional LED internal lighting . Both necessary to see what I’m doing. Compressor, belt driven, iron bore pump , 14cuft min free air delivered on a dedicated 20amp circuit. Does most of what I need – anything bigger goes down the road – £60 per hour.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have concluded that I need to remove the wheel. The current challenge is to remove the gib key. I am going to try using a wedge under the head of the key, and if that doesn’t work, I’m going to make a special puller. Lots more fun!

Thanks – Rowan

[vhgmcbuddy]

I got the cowl off thank you having removed those three extra bolts, and I got the starter pulley off. I had to buy a puller, and then I had to buy a longer central bolt for the puller, but after that it came off without too much trouble. Still got to get the flywheel off (waiting for delivery of the special Villiers Hammertite spanner). Then hopefully I will be able to see what’s wrong with the ignition!

Thank you – Rowan

[vhgmcbuddy]

Dear Angus
Never say your to old!
The motto for The Institute of Groundsmanship is ‘Through Training to Service’, I’m in my 42nd year of the now Grounds Management Association.
Kind regards
Andrew

[vhgmcbuddy]

Nostalgia ain’t what it used to be !
I went to my first outdoor IOG show at Motspur Park in 1976, I think. The show moved to a few other venues such as Kempton Park an eventually settled at Windsor Race Course. The show was always held at the beginning of September and it was always fine!!
We used to shut the business for the day and hire a mini bus, take all the staff and the head groundsmen / gardeners from our important customers – a good boys and girls day out.
I even attended s couple of Windsor shows after official retirement in 2012 but when commercial pressures brought about the move to the NEC which probably made business sense it was time to call it a day.

• This reply was modified 5 years ago by .

[vhgmcbuddy]

Trusty220
many thanks for the replies
apologies you are correct the serial number is 12844C
Fabrication work is no problem it was the engine that worried me .
The tractor has been moved to my father-in-laws down in the southwest of England so it is safe for now.
Could you give me any links to the Jap 5 engine so that I can start and formulate a restoration plan, all I know at the moment is the engine turns over by hand but not done any major investigations.
have enclosed a photograph of the serial number to confirm your thoughts.
Once again many thanks for your help

Max

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Great. Thanks, I actually found some data on the belt. which allowed me to buy the correct Optibelt. Hoping for replies to my other post about chain adjustment etc🙂

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Dave
The answer is yes, as we hold all the dating records from Ransomes.

Your machine is a Ransomes Marquis 20 Inch model MK 4A, The 4A started production in August 1967 and ended in March 1974,
Your machine carries a late number which was built in the factory in late December 1973, which would have been sold new into the spring season in 1974.
Hope this information helps
Regards
Andrew

[vhgmcbuddy]

Please note the person that started this topic is no longer a forum member

The significance is?

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