[vhgmcbuddy]

Oh and I forgot to ask, could you please let me know where about I should look for the oil pump that supplies oil to bronze gear? I believe that it should be somewhere in the depths of the gearbox?

[vhgmcbuddy]

I have had a further inspection of the internals and the only worrying thing I can find is a lot of play in the axles, I am going to have to machine these out and fit bushes, or sleeve the shafts. It seems like a lot of work, which it is but I am committed to the rebuild!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for that Charlie. On one hand I would like everything as good as possible as this is turning into a serious restoration, but on the other hand it will not ever do much work other than our little plot here at home. My bearings and seals arrived today, including the clutch thrust bearing so I am only waiting on the machine shop now to repair the shaft and that stage will be complete. New tyres arrive next week and I am still hunting for axle seals but am pretty confident I can source them. I would be interested in your spare brass worm, how much would you like for it?
On the engine side of things, the machine shop has bored it +30 and the new piston and big end bearings are ready for fitting. Lots to do but I am enjoying the challenge of bringing this marvelous wee implement back to running condition.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Charlie, it is so good to have contact with an expert!! I am in the process of sourcing bearings at the moment! I have sent the input shaft to the machine shop to have a large groove repaired and the shaft polished. Could you please tell me what you think of the condition of the brass gear? Im not sure if its stuffed or not!
Again I really appreciate your assistance Charlie!

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you for your reply – if I need a coil, where would I get one? the ones I have seen on ebay look nothing like what is fitted, the one on my engine is an aluminium thing.

Laine

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Charlie. Sorry I have been so long in replying. I had to get an engineer to remove the hub assembly’s for me as I didn’t have a puller man enough to remove them. I have split the gear case and found the input shaft bearings are badly worn. The clutch is covered in oil and there is some light corrosion damage. I am having a new clutch plate made at present and am sourcing 2 new shaft bearings(sealed) and a new spigot bearing. I am concentrating on one component at a time and will start with input shaft and clutch. I hope you don’t mind a few questions!!

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[vhgmcbuddy]

The code on the engine starts with 66 so I’m guessing that means 1966 had a tinker today and got it running 👍🏼 Are these rare at all? I can’t seem to find anything on internet about them.

[vhgmcbuddy]

This is it

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[vhgmcbuddy]

They will come off if you keep at it.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

You’ll probably have to make one. What you need is a bit of thick flat plate( or angle will do) with 3 holes drilled in it. Weld a nut on the centre one so you can thread a bolt in to push on the end of the crank, the get 2 bolts the same thread as is tapped in the flywheel, I can’t find my book at the moment so can’t find what the thread is but do you know anyone with a set of thread gauges?
When the tension is on you may have to whack the centre bolt to shock the flywheel off the taper.

[vhgmcbuddy]

A little tip I was told many years ago by a retired Ransomes factory manager is pre-war MG’s have a brass ID plate but during / after WW2 they will be steel. This was because Ransomes were not permitted to use brass as it was required for ammunition manufacture.

[vhgmcbuddy]

No joy, tried that aswell as many others. its really on the crankshaft. can someone link me to the correct type puller please?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Expeatfarmer I have found a date on the crown wheel , it’s marked 36 but I need to look closer. Do you now if it gives a precise date , do you have your number as a reference.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Will give it a go now, thank you S1.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Now you’ve removed the nut, I find the easiest way to remove the flywheel is to undo the 6 nuts holding the Orange airshroud in place on the opposite side of the engine and then give the shroud a couple of clonks with a soft hammer. Maybe not the correct way but very effective.

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