[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks Steve. I spent some time last week getting it so that it started fairly easily and the tick over was ok. 2 days ago we ran up against a piece of wood and it is now a bugger at starting and. when started the tick over is poor. I suspect that the timing is now a little out and that I need to look at the governor. If I have to I will take the head off and do the valves etc but I would prefer to play with the plough for a bit first. You advice re the springs is well noted. Thanks for your interest.

Chris

[vhgmcbuddy]

The condenser is new new one from Neil, so think its a good one.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi the Mag on the other MG2 is in poor condition, parts missing, so I have ordered a replacement Mag. Will come back once I have new Mag fitted. With new Mag and new fuel I am hopeful she will run.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I’m in! I will bring my almost working MG2, Magnito on its way, no implements at this time, but hoping to have one or two by next year to do with logging and forestry work. The only interesting thing with my MG2 is it has a V5 and period numberplate and good to go on the road. Accommodation booked this morning! Cheers.

[vhgmcbuddy]

If the thread is OK in the carb body, you could get a carb kit that includes a new emulsion tube. If the body is damaged it’s a new body part or find a a used one.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Right I think I have run into problems, when I took the emulsion tube out it was threaded and worn and so was the carb where it goes in. I don’t think this could have happened when I took the tube out, could it? Is there anyway to repair this or is it another carb bottom end?

[vhgmcbuddy]

Basically all the clutch is is an electro magnet which when energised pulls the clutch in.First you need to establish if you have power going down to it.If no power check the switch,fuses and the PCB.Also check the seat safety switch (you can temporarily bypass this by just bridging the two wires).If you do have power down to the clutch then check the continuity of the coil (note….some electric clutches have a diode in the wiring where the socket is) but I suspect if its not working a new clutch assembly is required.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Welcome to JUST ANSWER small engines, let me try to help you !! Look at your pto clutch, if it has three self locking nuts and three springs, it can be adjusted to bring the armature closer to the magnet. This makes it easier for the magnetic to pull. The clearance should be about .025in. between the two parts. Here is an adjustable unit. Yours may or may not be adjustable. You never know what kind of pto they put on. Let me know.
Hello found this regarding your clutch,if it’s adjustable it might be worth a try.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Ta chap, Again, my appreciation for reply is deep and genuine. I have the stops and haven’t altered either, on the basis that he who had ploughed with this machine before me knew more than I do. Another go tomorrow. When I got it it had a rogue/wrong needle in the carb. I have found the float needle in the pipe, twiddled, and got it starting OK from cold. Now need to sort out tick over (and therefore clucth not gripping) and hot starting.
I hope I can learn before he who own the field gives up on me.

[vhgmcbuddy]

no dont try to plough with that locked it makes it impossible to steer most people have two stops in the holes on the curved bar this allows some movement see picture, also note in the picture how the plough is set slightly leaning to the left to keep the plough upright while ploughing notice the notches in the piviot flange.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

no dont try to plough with that locked it makes it impossible to steer most people have two stops in the holes on the curved bar this allows some movement see picture, also note in the picture how the plough is set slightly leaning to the left to keep the plough upright while ploughing notice the notches in the piviot flange.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

no dont try to plough with that locked it makes it impossible to steer most people have two stops in the holes on the curved bar this allows some movement see picture, also note in the picture how the plough is set slightly leaning to the left to keep the plough upright while ploughing notice the notches in the piviot flange.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Great. Your reply is seriously appreciated. I had worked out that it was better to leave it alone. There is a ploughing event on the Isle of Wight on 12 April. I shall be there with a piece of straw and seeking out the experts, deeply humble and anxious to learn.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Tis a very interesting beast to drive – I’m rarely pleased at being heavy but was today. A harrowing experience.

I am puzzled at the function of the device in the 1st picture below and will be most grateful for any advice. It is easy to see that when it is moved into its “back” position the pin or dowel locates in a hole in the “rack” and prevents the plough from moving sideways. But, only a small upward movement of the handles and the thing swing forward and disengage. Once disengaged it locks disengaged and needs two hands to reengage it. Should one plough with it engaged or not?

2nd picture is of by ploughing attempts. It aint pretty but its all mine.

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Is it possible to fit one of those electronic ignition chips to these machines to help with starting?

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