Silverfoxfintry
@silverfoxfintry Active 3 months, 1 week agoForum Replies Created
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June 2, 2017 at 11:56 pm #25442
silverfoxfintry
ParticipantIs the SAE50 oil used in the Differintial as well?
Can I use the Same oil as the engine sump?
If so it simplifies things.June 2, 2017 at 10:52 pm #25440silverfoxfintry
ParticipantMy rebuild is progressing nicely. The differential and half shafts are fitted along with the brake drums and bands.
Can anyone advise of the correct oil for the dif and the gearbox?April 5, 2017 at 11:29 am #24899silverfoxfintry
ParticipantHello again.
The offer of a pair of driving wheels is very good of you. It is certainly the quickest option.
Where are you located, I seem to remember somewhere in the border States?
I am going to be down near Dumfries on Saturday, are you near there?
Regards.Silverfox
April 4, 2017 at 6:24 pm #24896silverfoxfintry
ParticipantGod bless “spell check” the above was supposed to read—-
The rollers are VERY loose on the spindles, hard to measure the bores, but I think about3/16 to 1/4 ” clearance.April 4, 2017 at 5:03 pm #24894silverfoxfintry
ParticipantMy drive Wheels have the semi-circular reinforcements fitted.
The rollers average about 0.950″OD and the spindles about 0.560″OD.
The Olen’s are VERY loose on the spindles, hard to ensure the bore, but I think about 3/16 to1/4″ clearance.April 4, 2017 at 8:05 am #24890silverfoxfintry
ParticipantGosh, it’s been Four months since I last posted.
A lot has happened to my MG5 since then.
The track support rollers have been overhauled (I used hard chromed hydraulic ram steel for the spindles and Sintered bronze bushes)
All the sub assemblies have been overhauled and now I am looking at the track drive and idle rollers.
Can anyone tel me the correct diameters and clearances for the actual track driving spindles and rollers.
Mine are very worn and the tracks have been resting on the rims of the drive roller.Thanks.
Silverfox
November 9, 2016 at 5:45 pm #22963silverfoxfintry
ParticipantYes, I have priced new gears, but funds are limited and I have already spent far more than my wife is happy with!
November 9, 2016 at 11:49 am #22959silverfoxfintry
ParticipantI think I will have to find a doner unit.
Hopefully in better condition.
As I have already overhauled the Engine and gearbox I don’t feel I can abandon this now.
On a brighter note, the differential gearbox and the steering breaks don’t appear to be in to bad condition.
I live in hope!November 8, 2016 at 11:51 pm #22955silverfoxfintry
ParticipantThanks for the help.
The frame is now off, the track support rollers removed and the final drive gearbox and drive hub stripped.
Mmmm! I have a lot of work and expense ahead.
I don’t think any oil or grease has been used in the last 20 years.
I am going to have to rethink this project.Silverfox
March 26, 2016 at 8:14 am #20337silverfoxfintry
ParticipantThings are progressing well. I have decided to replace the bevel pinion shaft, bearings and the two smaller gears in the reduction gearbox.( thanks to Neil)
When setting up the Preload of the Timpken bearings I encountered a problem.
Can anyone advise me of the correct setting for these bearings?
The old bearings were quite worn and the nuts and locking tab were slack on the shaft.
Also I am considering making up a new securing nut with a thin collar I can stab into the keyway on the shaft, rather than the Two nuts and locking washer.Thanks.
SILVERFOX.
March 12, 2016 at 7:37 am #20226silverfoxfintry
ParticipantWell, after a lot of swearing, use of Fox wedges and pry bars, I have managed to remove the PTO dog clutch cover. Then all the balls fell out of the bearing!
Mmmm. Well it needed replacing anyway.
Just need to pull the dog from the shaft now.
Next I have to remove the bolts securing the gearbox to the differential casing?
Any help/advice on completely stripping the drive train will be greatly appreciated.Thanks.
Silverfox.
March 10, 2016 at 3:07 pm #20213silverfoxfintry
ParticipantHello Dave.
Thanks for your kind offer, but, I have a copy of the spare parts manual.
The drawings don’t really give much information on stripping sequence.
I will have another try tonight.Regards
Silverfoxfintry
March 10, 2016 at 9:46 am #20210silverfoxfintry
ParticipantGood morning all.
Well, the engine is complete. Only the cowling requires sandblasting and painting.
I am now starting to investigate to reduction and differential gearboxes.
However. The cover on the reduction gearbox is reluctant to come off.
Can anyone advise me of the stripping sequence for the gearboxes?
At first glance everything looks in fair condition. But only a complete strip and inspection will reveal the true state of things.Thanks
SILVERFOX.
December 21, 2015 at 5:12 pm #15558silverfoxfintry
ParticipantWell, the rebuild has started.
I bored out the main bearing on a milling machine.
Allowed 0.002″ clearance.
Can anyone advise on the end float on the crank shaft?
I have 0.005″ but I think this may be a bit tight.
ThanksSILVERFOX
November 14, 2015 at 8:58 am #15197silverfoxfintry
ParticipantOK, so the crank has been re-ground and after trying to flush out the Oil gallery with WD40 and compressed air I had to remove the plug.
MMMM, quite a job. Ended up welding a nut to it and using an impact gun.
Glad I did. Found a lot of old carbon deposits.
I hope to start the rebuild next week. Can anyone tell me the torque for the big end nuts?
Also will the Main bearing require reaming after it is fitted, or is a finished size?Thanks again
Silverfox
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