[silverfoxfintry]

Hello Rob.

I can’t thank you enough for the pictures and drawing you sent.
I now have enough information to fabricate the cover and the box.
I will post pictures once it is completed.

Best regards

Iain

[silverfoxfintry]

Good afternoon Rob.

Thank you for offering to take some pictures.
If possible can you include some basic measurements?

Regards

Iain

[silverfoxfintry]

Well. I am back from my Holidays now and wanting to Mage the flywheel cover and tool box.
Please can someone send me pictures?

Thank you all.

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[silverfoxfintry]

I am going on Holiday for a couple of weeks. When I return I will order the chain and see about making a tool box.
My unit hasn’t got the cover over the clutch fitted. If I am making a tool box I will have to make the cover as well. Can any kind person send me a picture and sizes?
I have access to sheet metal tools.
By the way. She started again today, first try!! So I think I have solved my starting problems.

[silverfoxfintry]

Well, I seem to have cracked the starting problem.
When starting from cold. 1/2 choke, flood carb, remove HT lead. Open throttle about1/4.
Turn over Twice. Replace HT lead. And give a hard, fast pull on the upstroke.
Hot starting. 1/4 throttle. Pull over.
I think that using full choke was flooding the cylinder.
On another topic. Can anyone tell me the pitch of the tool bar lift chain.
It had 1/2″ fitted. But this is wrong.
Thanks.

Iain

[silverfoxfintry]

Thank you for your help and advice.

The float is dented on both ends.
I am ordering a longer needle from Neil.
Apart from that, once I get it started it runs well.
Starting is a pain.

Have fun.

Iain

[silverfoxfintry]

Well. After a very energetic and frustrating afternoon on Friday I went back to basics.
Removed the cylinder head and checked both the valve and spark timing.
The valve timing and clearance were spot on. But the ingnition timing was out a couple of degrees.
Reset the timing and rebuilt the engine.
Today I (very carefully) followed the book instructions on starting the engine.
Being well rested and having had a good breakfast I think helped.
It started! It ran at a steady 6to7 hundred RPM.
JOY! Let it warm up and checked the oil return- plenty of flow.
Engaged reverse and opened the throttle, the clutch engaged smoothly and I backed her out of the garage.
I let her run for about 10 min and checked for leaks, all ok.
However when the engine is running below 600rpm I have Petrol leaking from the Carburettor. I had checked the float valve and it looked OK, but the top of the brass float is a bit depressed in a couple of areas. It might require replacement.
As far as I can find out this the first time she has run in 25 years.
I will take some pictures tomorrow.
Thanks to all who have offered help and advice.

Regards

Iain

[silverfoxfintry]

Well.
The rebuild is complete. But I can’t get the engine to start!
I have checked everything.
Valve timing, spark timing, carburettor, fuel pump. Everything I can think of.
I think I am getting ingnition( the exhaust is getting warm). But It won’t run!
Any help or suggestions!

Thanks

Iain

[silverfoxfintry]

Champion D16
Available from “the Green Spark Plug Co.”

[silverfoxfintry]

Neil.

If I had known you were getting a large batch made I would not have made my own!
I have a Boxford AUD centre lathe. Not really designed for large batch production.
Do you have access to a Turret Lathe?
Also I opted to weld my spindles, rather than threading the ends and using nuts.
Your prices are very reasonable, I know the labour involved.
I have given some thought to lubracation of the rollers. In the end I used a liberal coating of Copper grease on the pins when I assembled the rollers.
Time will tell if it asks any difference.

All the best.

Iain

[silverfoxfintry]

Hi Niel.

Now you tell me!
Just out of interest, what steel did you use?
I went for the EN24 as it is tough and quite wear resistant, though not cheap! £85.00 for 3 Meters.
Thanks for the info on the paint I will visit my local paint shop next week.

All the best for 2018.

Iain

[silverfoxfintry]

Time marches on!
Since my last post I have refurbished one set of drive and idle wheels.
Thank god I have a good lathe.
Machining 30 sets of spindles and rollers took a long time.
I used EN24 steel for the rollers and mild steel bright bar for the spindles.
Finished welding last night.
I still have to refurbish the second drive wheel and weld on new rims to the idle wheel.
I have been painting everything with Red Oxide primer as I went along. Now I am starting to think about top coat paint.
Can anyone advise on the paint codes. Both the Blue and the Red?
I have to get a move on now as I have work for my MG5 in the spring, hauling logs in a small wood.

[silverfoxfintry]

I have found evidence of extensive repairs to the Differential and gearbox.
Perhaps the gears have been replaced in 1955?

[silverfoxfintry]

I have just had a look at the register.
My serial numbers don’t seem to be correct?
Any comments gladly received.

Silverfox.

[silverfoxfintry]

Finally, after polishing and acid etching made out the serial number of my MG5.
I can make it 4 numbers, though due to a section of the plate having rusted through 1 may be missing.
I have the following– 7-156.
Also the number 2155 is on the differential gears.
Engine No MGE 6828.
Hope this is correct and helps with the register.

Silverfox.

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