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April 16, 2019 at 5:53 pm #30954ransomes256Participant
Bob,
As you already know I do not have Sachs pistons or know of a source (would like to know if you find one).
As an alternative have you considered having the barrel sleeved so you can continue to use your current piston?
NeilMarch 31, 2019 at 7:35 pm #30831ransomes256ParticipantThe insulator is to keep the points spring and the wire connections away from the body. Also need to check the 2 screws that hold the cover spring clips do not contact make contact with any of the wires. Check the stop tabs are not shorted where bolted through the body.
NeilMarch 29, 2019 at 1:19 pm #30803ransomes256ParticipantKeith,
The actual gun connectors are the same size regardless of the fixing thread.
There are many fixings available. 3/16″ up UNF and BSF, 1/8″ up BSP, 6mm up metric, plus push in.
Oil guns are not cheap. Look up Myford oil gun or Wanner for examples.
NeilMarch 28, 2019 at 10:18 pm #30798ransomes256ParticipantKeith,
I have only ever found 3 versions of a grease nipple apart from the thread or pressed in fixing.
The 3 being a standard ball shape where the grease gun connector locks on and need pulling to one side to release it. The second is a plain end with a slight taper where the gun needs to be pressed on and normally needs a push action pump rather than a lever type. The final version is a high pressure connector where the gun has a slide on connector to prevent it being pushed off.
What does confuse me is you refer to greasing a lathe which is not usual as they normally specify oil lubication and as such use a push action pressure oil gun and may therefore be the plain type of nipple.
NeilMarch 20, 2019 at 12:49 pm #30731ransomes256ParticipantYes I have a copy.
What do you want to know?
NeilMarch 13, 2019 at 4:12 pm #30657ransomes256ParticipantHad the same mail.
Sent message to Charlie.March 13, 2019 at 8:23 am #30654ransomes256ParticipantTim,
Sorry should have put my email so you can contact me.
I handle all the spares for the Ransomes MG crawlers.
njarrett@btinternet.com
NeilMarch 13, 2019 at 5:55 am #30652ransomes256ParticipantTim,
The Wico A is an easy magneto to overhaul.
As above check the points are clean and that there is an insulator strip around the ouside of the points spring. Make sure the stop tabs / buttons are not shorted. Plus of course it is dry.
The chances are it is the condenser that has failed.
I can supply new points and condensers if you need them.
A simple check on the coil (not a full check) is with a multimeter measure HT to ground which should be in the region of 5k ohm.
NeilMarch 12, 2019 at 8:29 am #30633ransomes256ParticipantI do not understand why you cannot adjust the points to give a larger gap unless either the base part of the points is not able to pass through the slot in the carrier body or the spring heal is contacting the condenser terminal and restricting the opening.
However, to confirm the magneto is fitted with the correct cam the slot should be about 2 oclock when the points are fully open. If someone has fitted the wrong cam (from a clockwise magneto) the points will be fully open with the slot about 4 oclock.
I have rebuilt many of these magnetos and never had this issue.Neil
March 2, 2019 at 1:27 pm #30565ransomes256ParticipantNo spark with new condenser!
Have you put the insulator strip round the outside of the points spring so it cannot short out to the magneto body?
Are the stop tabs / buttons clear of the mag body?
Have you had the stop tabs undone and are the through stud insulators in place and not shorted?
If you have a multimeter the HT to ground reading should be about 5 k ohm.
NeilFebruary 27, 2019 at 7:21 am #30548ransomes256ParticipantStuart,
Yes there should be a return spring and also a small clip that fits around the rod in the slot of the top cap. The clip allows the rod to turn to the groove allowing the strangler to stay down against the pressure of the return spring.
NeilFebruary 24, 2019 at 9:35 pm #30498ransomes256ParticipantPoints gap 0.015″
Magneto pawl release set at TDCNeil
February 22, 2019 at 8:56 am #30462ransomes256ParticipantMarc,
As my hobby I have become the supplier of all the MG parts.
Drop me a mail and I will send you a list.
njarrett@btinternet.com
NeilFebruary 12, 2019 at 8:50 am #30353ransomes256ParticipantFull choke, drop to half choke once started and easing off as engine warms.
February 6, 2019 at 8:36 pm #30292ransomes256ParticipantIain,
Now you have it timed to TDC mark the position of the magneto then retard it a little (turn it anticlockwise) This should aid starting but will drop max revs and power a bit.
If you have been trying to start it a lot you may have lost some compression due to bore wash. Try squirting a bit of oil into the bore.
Are you keeping the carburettor flooded to ensure engine can suck fuel?
Starting procedure I have found most effective is.
Spark plug lead off.
Full choke.
1/4 throttle.
Flood the carb.
Pull engine over 3 times slowly.
Put plug lead back on.
Flood the carb. again.
Pull over to start.
Good Luck.
Neil -
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