[jwilkes]

Hi

Not in a position to help at the moment as just in the reassemble stage of a similar unit for my cousin. I am told that the engine was running in my case before it was laid up 5 years ago with a broken rotor. I will look and see if I can suggest an alternative.

Jeremy

[jwilkes]

Thanks for the pictures I will work on a solution. Good lick with the Villiers engine

[jwilkes]

With regards to the one wheel the Yeoman does not have diff-lock only rigid 0,1 or 2 wheel drive. If you push the drive engage lever to the second position you get the two wheel drive engaged which would make the unit earlier to use.

It is good that you sorted the clutch out without disassembly – lots of work. Just as background I think the clutch plate is different the Villiers to the BSA (which I have) not sure what the difference is.

You have something very special on your Yeoman that is missing off nearly all the rest, the Reverse clutch safety disengage. It would be really useful if you have some photos of the mechanism with measurements. I would like to fabricate the missing parts for my Yeoman.

I agree that the rotor box is heavy but not impossibly so. The tine situation is good. I did find that the Howard Gen tines fit the Yeoman. I suspect that the Gem tines are beefed up to cope with the extra power so they should last longer on a Yeoman. In my case it is essential as the original engine had to be replaced and now has a 13Hp Chonda unit rather than the orignal BSA420.

[jwilkes]

It is really good that you can still provide a very necessary service where needed and that the safety of those working in this environment can be accommodated. Part of the army of people trying to stop the economy completely collapsing.

There does need to be common sense, though this can appear as uncommon sense at times, Commercial growers must be our priority and then domestically it is normally the case that the equipment used last year can be pressed into service again this year. I am seeing seed stocks locally depleted but not exhausted but I suspect this is normal growing season purchases with an extra load from new growers.

I am blessed with an environment where I do not need to leave home except food, I am doubly blessed with a job where I have already been working from a home office for more than 15 years which is continuing unchanged, except I have been asked to take holiday earlier in the year. 2 weeks project work coming up which I am looking forward to. Perhaps some of those old projects saved for when I get time might be completed.

[jwilkes]

Hi I have stripped and rebuilt a Yeoman – though I had to replace the Engine as I could not get it to move with 2 tonnes on the piston. The clutch is straightforward single plate on the hearbox, a spider spins the outside attached to the engine.

Support the Engine, undo the nuts and pull to get at the clutch.

Once out you should be able to get at the mechanism and some simple push and pull might get things moving again.

If you are forced to remove the clutch things get complex ad I remember making a tool to unscrew the Nut off the Gearbox input – Still have it somewhere if you get that far.

One thing to be really careful of is reassembly. The old plate is probably very weak and easy to damage the teeth. I think the replacement had to be custom made at about £120 delivered which is an ouch moment. I do now have a spare new original Yeoman clutch plate in store or the day it is needed.

When it is working well the machine is really useful. The detached rotor box can be replaced with a riding seat of home design really easily. My old Honda plough also fits but I tend to use the tractor for that job now.

Hope that this is useful

keep well, keep safe

[jwilkes]

busman

I agree completely. I am keeping an eye out for spares but would only buy when there is delivery by post or courier.

Just about to start 2 weeks of holiday in isolation and am looking forward to all of the projects that might get completed before the summer!

Keep well and keep safe everyone.

[jwilkes]

Hi Ray I have a Clifford Mk1 which is a very small rotavator with a Villiers 2 stroke engine (as was fitted to an Allen Scythe, I suspect you have one of the Clifford Mk 4 which is a much heavier piece of equipment

[jwilkes]

Hi Fred

Just checked the exhaust on the seized engine – Well rotten. You will probably need to find a specialist, I would be starting with a search of the Stationary Engine parts suppliers:

The site “Vintage Air cooled Engine Spares” might be able to help as they show the BAS420cc under the BSA parts. It is likely if they cannot sort you out they can send you in the right direction.

Shame about the reversing lock. Just need to see one in place and, with permission take some photos and measurements. It is unlikely to be too much trouble to fabricate a replacement.

With regards to getting the machine aged I think there is someone with access to the Howard serial number register who can give you exact dates. I only know this as a guy I bought a seed drill had had his yeoman dated. Incidentally I see that the chap has a Yeoman clutch plate for sale on a well known auction site which could be of interest if you are in the right part of the country.

Jeremy

[jwilkes]

Hi Fred

One question for you Does your machine still have the reversing lock system in place, On a yeoman there is the clutch (normally on the right hand handlebar) and a second lever on the left hand handlebar. When you go into reverse the clutch is automatically disengaged until the left control handle is engaged, a rather useful safety feature from a time when Health and Safety considerations were more cavalier than nowadays. On most Yeoman rotavators the mechanism has been removed as inconvenient. If you have yours still on the machine can you take some pictures and measurements so that I can try to rebuild the mechanism please.

Jeremy

[jwilkes]

Hi Fred

In my case I was not looking to restore the unit back to original but rather build what is a useful rotavator / 2 wheel tractor for the garden. When I got my first Yeoman it ha a ceased engine (I had a 2 tonne press trying to move the piston without luck so it must be nearly welded. As a result of knowing the engine was not going to work again I moved my 13HP Chonda as a replacement as they are a similar frame size to the old BSA. As I had started I did a nit and bolt strip and then rebuild with new bearings and oil seals. The only thing that really needs working on is the gear selectors as they are sloppy and will need resleaving in the future. Being a detachable rotor box I have built new tool frames to get a riding seat and home made potato planter / ridger. I am currently working on the new seed drill arrangement for the unit.

I am not sure what to look out for but the really expensive piece was the replacement clutch plate that was custom made for me.

I cannot give advice on the engine as I never got it going thought a rebuild of the magneto is probably best done in India.

You have to make the decision about the Engine and what you are doing with the gearbox. If you decide to strip then let me know, Just be careful with the clutch plate i you take the engine off.

Hope this helps

Jeremy

[jwilkes]

Item 8
B.S.K.3/16″ x 5/32″ x 1 1/2″ lg (rnd one end for BSA Engine)

Hope this helps
Jeremy

[jwilkes]

Sorry for so long but the yeoman manual is available on-line I will try to look out the size, using the wrong computer tonight. I keep a box of Woodruff keys the 150 in a pack type assortment as I am always loosing the small parts and it is not much more to buy the pack than the keys individually

Jeremy

[jwilkes]

Thank you . I have started with some simple pins and see how they go.. Should have then working soon on a rotavator ridger system, if they do not behave will add some wooden blocks. Got some apple which would be hard enough I think.

Jeremy

[jwilkes]

Dave

Many thanks, perhaps the taper is for the dirt to get out. At least there is no turning to create new bearings.

Jeremy

[jwilkes]

Adding some images. I now have 2 opinions that there is no bearing, seems strange that the wheel bore is tapered, perhaps just to make the casting process easier.

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