[john-e-w]

Having been through the same issues with another organisation I belong to, here are a few ways to cut the costs.

1. Use slightly cheaper paper for the magazine so that it is lighter and doesn’t cost so much to post. We now use 80gm A3 folded in half to make $ sides of printable A4 – and we keep the issues to 2-3 sheets of A3
2. Only post-out the magazine to those that really need a paper copy, the majority can read it on-line and/or download it if they need a paper copy to read
3. Have a look around for a cheaper web-site host – there are plenty out there looking for customers

Yes by all means increase the membership costs, but try to keep them in line with inflation. Like all organisations that are run by volunteers try to get the younger generation involved in the technical and management issues, otherwise the club will just fade into obscurity.

Regards
John E-W

[john-e-w]

Having looked on U-Tube how to take the tap apart I copied their idea and replaced the cork washer. However, when it came to reassembly the inner shaft was not long enough to be re-swaged over – so I had another idea – thread the shaft and “pull” end – as I didn’t have a small enough metric Tap & die, I used a 4BA on both halves – fitted a treat (see sketch). The advantage is that it can be easily removed and a new washer fitted at anytime.

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[john-e-w]

Try spacing with a washer
John E-W

[john-e-w]

Mine has just arrived
John e-w

[john-e-w]

Magazine arrived today 11.30 – subs in the post tomorrow morning

John e-w

[john-e-w]

Hmm – mine hasn’t arrived yet! – next delivery day should have been Wednesday, so if I’m lucky it will be Friday – or sometime next week – maybe!

Happy Christmas one and all
Regards
John E-W

[john-e-w]

with the output pipe facing up, try filling it with penetrating oil

John e-w

[john-e-w]

I understand Charlie – mine arrived yesterday about 13.00 (apparently there is a shortage of “Posties” in Sevenoaks and they are having to double up on their rounds)

By the way it looks good with 2 columns – makes it easier to read – probably easier digitally as well.

Regards
John E-W

[john-e-w]

Hmm – mine not yet arrived – put it down to the “postie” working a 3 day week!!

I note that it’s not on our web pages yet either.

Regards
john e-w

[john-e-w]

Good morning Charlie, sorry I couldn’t make the Weeley weekend, I would have loved to actually met some of the members of the club – face to names is invaluable.

So are you saying that in the locked position the tines should not rotate? If that is the case how much slack should there be in the cable as there isn’t much in mine and I am reluctant to have no slack as it could lead to premature clutch plate wear. Now I can extend the locking lever mechanism, but how far should the lever be in its travel to disengage the tines, but still not slip the drive when engaged in the running condition?

I overcome the problem on my running machine with the aid of a slack tie-wrap to hold the clutch lever in the fully UP position

Regards
John E-W

[john-e-w]

Well done Charlie – mine arrived yesterday pm – paper seems a bit heavier than usual

John E-W

[john-e-w]

Graham
Have a look at picture 3 on our Home page

John E-W

[john-e-w]

Hi Graham
From the latest photos, I would say that the wheels are on the wrong sides as the “V’s” on the treads should be facing forwards not backwards.

Regards
John E-W

[john-e-w]

This conversation seems to have change course over the past few days – the original question was should you remove the rust dents or fill them in. I would rub them down, use a rust preventative, then spray with Hammarite which will go a long way to preventing rust occurring again and also “look like” rust indentations all over the bodywork, so the original rust pitting will not be seen.

I suggest that it’s over to the owners of the machines what course of action they wish to take.

John E-W

[john-e-w]

video worked for me – about 10sec duration

John E-W

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