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Home › Forums › General › Help and information › Monro Mk3 Rotavator
I have a Monroe Mk3 working and another I am restoring. I am currently replacing all the Bowden cables and have long wondered what the locking mechanism is for on the clutch lever and reverse lever. Neither seem to have a great effect on my working model, but maybe they are set up incorrectly. Both levers work when squeezed up to the handle and when released drop to the locked position and the rotavator functions OK. So on the model I am renovating, should the clutch tension in particular, be set so that the gearbox is not activated and the blades don’t rotate when the lever is in the down but locked position – I ask because it seems a bit pointless being able to lock the lever with the blades revolving. It also seems downright dangerous to lock the reverse lever.
Regards
John E-W
Charlie Moore is the man for all things Monrotiller , I’m sure when he gets back from Weeley , he will have the answer for you.
Andy.
The clutch should lock in the disengaged position, ie pulled up. This is essential to enable safe starting as there is no other way to stop the tines, one of the bad points of the design. The levers and locking mechanism do wear with time and age.
Good morning Charlie, sorry I couldn’t make the Weeley weekend, I would have loved to actually met some of the members of the club – face to names is invaluable.
So are you saying that in the locked position the tines should not rotate? If that is the case how much slack should there be in the cable as there isn’t much in mine and I am reluctant to have no slack as it could lead to premature clutch plate wear. Now I can extend the locking lever mechanism, but how far should the lever be in its travel to disengage the tines, but still not slip the drive when engaged in the running condition?
I overcome the problem on my running machine with the aid of a slack tie-wrap to hold the clutch lever in the fully UP position
Regards
John E-W
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