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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 782 total)
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  • #44258
    andyfrost
    Participant

    Mine too , a really nice tribute to Geoff.

    Andy.

    #44148
    andyfrost
    Participant

    Grahame , sorry was unaware of your sizes , I’ve used the more common sizes on Hondas Briggs etc. , and they work really well.

    Andy.

    #44146
    andyfrost
    Participant

    Grahame , crankshaft converters are readily avaiable online.

    Andy.

    #44126
    andyfrost
    Participant

    E5 petrol at a mixture of 20/1 ratio , with a good quality MINERAL twostroke oil is what I run mine on.

    Andy.

    • This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by andyfrost.
    #44098
    andyfrost
    Participant

    From memory there were two different ignition units on the 120 , Miller and Lucas.

    Andy.

    #44094
    andyfrost
    Participant

    You’ve got a real rarity there , I’ve never seen one before.

    Andy.

    #44093
    andyfrost
    Participant

    Charlie , I’m fairly certain it’s soldered directly to the coil.

    Andy.

    #44027
    andyfrost
    Participant

    You can make your own from a suitable leather fashion belt , I did this with Father-in-laws Plowmate , glued it together with an industrial glue , a little bit of trial and error getting length right , but can assure you it will work well.

    Andy.

    #44024
    andyfrost
    Participant

    I’ve never worked on BCS boxes , all I can say is that ANY wear or play in rotor boxes will result in worn seals , so it’s vital to replace both seals and bearings……..this advice is based on 50yrs of working on Howard rotavators.

    Andy.

    #44011
    andyfrost
    Participant

    Very sad news indeed , I feel Weeley will be a very sombre weekend , above all our thoughts at this time are with those closest to Geoff.

    Andy.

    #43969
    andyfrost
    Participant

    Grahame , with all due respect , when you replaced your sheared B&S key did you just hand tighten the flywheel back on , or apply the correct spec of torque , I suspect the latter. Looking at the photo of your 2A key , it seems obvious to me that it is the result of damage caused by running with an incorrectly tightened flywheel.I’m certain that if you trawl the internet for torque settings on industrial engines you will not find ONE that states a hand tight setting ….whatever that equates to in ftlbs.
    By the way , the pin you mention in your Howard Gem , yet again that is not the part that is designed to shear , the four 7/16th bolts with the springs behind them on the rotor shaft tighten up against the friction plates , like every other Gem that has been made.
    In this thread I’ve tried to convey you my experience with 2As , I’ve worked on countless numbers of them , pumping sets, Colwoods, Bulldog/ Bullfinches, charging sets etc etc.

    Andy.

    #43955
    andyfrost
    Participant

    David , you’re correct, by Grahames admission the flywheel nut was only “hand tight” if it had been run like that it would not have lasted , the key would have shattered , resulting in untold damage very quickly indeed. JAP2A keys were never meant to shear , a steel key on a steel shaft in in steel housing is so obviously a recipe for disaster if your only hand tightening
    Simply reassemble how it should be , tighten right up and as the saying goes it’s job done.

    Andy.

    #43951
    andyfrost
    Participant

    I’ll have to wait for an accurate close-up of the key before passing judgement. No felt seal present is a further indicator that your engine has been apart before and been tampered with.

    Andy.

    #43947
    andyfrost
    Participant

    Grahame , one more question , and it may sound off topic , when you removed the flywheel , was the large thick felt seal present around the stator plate.

    Andy.

    #43946
    andyfrost
    Participant

    H7 h6 or js6 , forgive my ignorance , but what exactly does that mean.

    Andy.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 782 total)