[andyfrost]

Grahame , sorry was unaware of your sizes , I’ve used the more common sizes on Hondas Briggs etc. , and they work really well.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Grahame , crankshaft converters are readily avaiable online.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

E5 petrol at a mixture of 20/1 ratio , with a good quality MINERAL twostroke oil is what I run mine on.

Andy.

• This reply was modified 3 weeks, 4 days ago by andyfrost.

[andyfrost]

From memory there were two different ignition units on the 120 , Miller and Lucas.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

You’ve got a real rarity there , I’ve never seen one before.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Charlie , I’m fairly certain it’s soldered directly to the coil.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

You can make your own from a suitable leather fashion belt , I did this with Father-in-laws Plowmate , glued it together with an industrial glue , a little bit of trial and error getting length right , but can assure you it will work well.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

I’ve never worked on BCS boxes , all I can say is that ANY wear or play in rotor boxes will result in worn seals , so it’s vital to replace both seals and bearings……..this advice is based on 50yrs of working on Howard rotavators.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Very sad news indeed , I feel Weeley will be a very sombre weekend , above all our thoughts at this time are with those closest to Geoff.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Grahame , with all due respect , when you replaced your sheared B&S key did you just hand tighten the flywheel back on , or apply the correct spec of torque , I suspect the latter. Looking at the photo of your 2A key , it seems obvious to me that it is the result of damage caused by running with an incorrectly tightened flywheel.I’m certain that if you trawl the internet for torque settings on industrial engines you will not find ONE that states a hand tight setting ….whatever that equates to in ftlbs.
By the way , the pin you mention in your Howard Gem , yet again that is not the part that is designed to shear , the four 7/16th bolts with the springs behind them on the rotor shaft tighten up against the friction plates , like every other Gem that has been made.
In this thread I’ve tried to convey you my experience with 2As , I’ve worked on countless numbers of them , pumping sets, Colwoods, Bulldog/ Bullfinches, charging sets etc etc.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

David , you’re correct, by Grahames admission the flywheel nut was only “hand tight” if it had been run like that it would not have lasted , the key would have shattered , resulting in untold damage very quickly indeed. JAP2A keys were never meant to shear , a steel key on a steel shaft in in steel housing is so obviously a recipe for disaster if your only hand tightening
Simply reassemble how it should be , tighten right up and as the saying goes it’s job done.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

I’ll have to wait for an accurate close-up of the key before passing judgement. No felt seal present is a further indicator that your engine has been apart before and been tampered with.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Grahame , one more question , and it may sound off topic , when you removed the flywheel , was the large thick felt seal present around the stator plate.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

H7 h6 or js6 , forgive my ignorance , but what exactly does that mean.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Grahame , it would concern me when you said the pulley came of by hand , I can’t help but think all’s not right somewhere and would lead to flywheel/key/ crankshaft failure.All the 2As I’ve worked on the pulley tightens right up , and requires the impact gun to undo.
The points gap is usually stamped into the points inspection cover , I would hazard a guess that your engine has been “got at” at some point in its life.
I will admit to having little to no experience of the external transfer coil system , I only have one machine in my collection that uses it , a Honda F80(the twin cylinder upsidedown engine) , which starts and runs lovely , so thus far have let well done be alone.
Be sure to re-align the key with the cam , looks like yours has moved.

Andy.

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