[andyfrost]

Grahame , with all due respect , when you replaced your sheared B&S key did you just hand tighten the flywheel back on , or apply the correct spec of torque , I suspect the latter. Looking at the photo of your 2A key , it seems obvious to me that it is the result of damage caused by running with an incorrectly tightened flywheel.I’m certain that if you trawl the internet for torque settings on industrial engines you will not find ONE that states a hand tight setting ….whatever that equates to in ftlbs.
By the way , the pin you mention in your Howard Gem , yet again that is not the part that is designed to shear , the four 7/16th bolts with the springs behind them on the rotor shaft tighten up against the friction plates , like every other Gem that has been made.
In this thread I’ve tried to convey you my experience with 2As , I’ve worked on countless numbers of them , pumping sets, Colwoods, Bulldog/ Bullfinches, charging sets etc etc.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

David , you’re correct, by Grahames admission the flywheel nut was only “hand tight” if it had been run like that it would not have lasted , the key would have shattered , resulting in untold damage very quickly indeed. JAP2A keys were never meant to shear , a steel key on a steel shaft in in steel housing is so obviously a recipe for disaster if your only hand tightening
Simply reassemble how it should be , tighten right up and as the saying goes it’s job done.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

I’ll have to wait for an accurate close-up of the key before passing judgement. No felt seal present is a further indicator that your engine has been apart before and been tampered with.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Grahame , one more question , and it may sound off topic , when you removed the flywheel , was the large thick felt seal present around the stator plate.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

H7 h6 or js6 , forgive my ignorance , but what exactly does that mean.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Grahame , it would concern me when you said the pulley came of by hand , I can’t help but think all’s not right somewhere and would lead to flywheel/key/ crankshaft failure.All the 2As I’ve worked on the pulley tightens right up , and requires the impact gun to undo.
The points gap is usually stamped into the points inspection cover , I would hazard a guess that your engine has been “got at” at some point in its life.
I will admit to having little to no experience of the external transfer coil system , I only have one machine in my collection that uses it , a Honda F80(the twin cylinder upsidedown engine) , which starts and runs lovely , so thus far have let well done be alone.
Be sure to re-align the key with the cam , looks like yours has moved.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

David , I’m not at all savvy with PCs , and haven’t yet fathomed how to blow-up photos , but the rollpin in his pics appears to me to be on the opposite end to the threaded part , but of course I could well be mistaken on that. Grahame states that he knocked the rollpin out , which to me would suggest that it went through the crankshaft , something I’ve never seen on the countless 2As that I’ve worked on.

Andy

[andyfrost]

Grahame , I never said or meant you were complicating your ignition ideas , I admire you for having a go , and I really do hope it works , It appears to me a sound idea , if the situation happens whereby the original components are not available. Whilst parts are still readily available I tend to go down that route.
I have a large ammount of purpose made pullers , for all manner of engines , obviously if my usual method does not work , I would revert to one of those were I in your position. At least you managed to get it off , which is the main thing with no damage involved , we all have different ways of doing different tasks.
Still confused about your rollpin??

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Grahame , you do seem to have made a most simple task complicated , 2As are one of , if not THE simplest engines to work on , as you have now seen , no awkward taper flywheels , keyed timing. Every 2A that I’ve done have always had a head gasket.
I can’t see from your pics , but did the rollpin actually go through the crankshaft , or just through the alloy starter and into the centre boss.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Grahame , the starter pulley(the alloy part) and the steel inner(with the slot) are as such one unit , and upon undoing will come off as a complete unit , it’s then a simple task of drawing the flywheel off its staight shaft , in my experience they are very easy to remove.
Very recently I did a 2A on a Bulldog for a collector friend of mine , fortunately the mechanicals were excellant , the coil was duff , and as he wanted 100% reliability , I fitted a complete new ignition system , all parts are easily available , it started and ran superbly , and he’s delighted with it.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Grahame , every 2A I’ve ever worked on the flywheel is only held on by the starter pulley , you should see a large slot in the steel embossed inner part , I have a nut welded on a piece of steel that fits snugly into that slot and use an impact gun , it’s normal righthand thread, very often the flywheel will come of with a VERY SLIGHT tap from behind , it’s a straight shaft with key , so no locked on tapers , or air chisels to worry about. Can’t say I’m sure what you mean by the rollpin , it’s something I’ve never come accross.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

A photo of your machine will help , AC made loads of different machines.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

Yes , Im all for the increase to keep this wonderful club afloat. I’ve also long thought that there should be a forsale section on here , but for CLUB MEMBERS ONLY , even more so if we have fewer magazines , perhaps we could have a membership vote on this??

Andy.

[andyfrost]

OK David , but I can assure you the first 2As were fitted with the JAP carb , the Zenith came much later.

Andy.

[andyfrost]

David , the groove you refer to was an idea/design that JAP toyed with for a short period , it was also used on 4/3 , 5 models , but was quickly dropped. So in it’s original format that engine would have been fitted with a carb with the JAP logo cast into the fuel bowl , it was a very similar looking carb to the Zenith13. Traces of yellow paint on the carb in one of your pics tells us quite clearly that it is a mixture of old/new bits and pieces.

Andy

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