Home › Forums › The Machinery Forums › Pedestrian operated machines › Iseki AC-2 rotavator
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vhgmcbuddy.
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November 25, 2013 at 5:02 pm #3392
vhgmcbuddy
MemberI have 1 of these machines in the shed if anyone wants it. Minus recoil starter and seized, but otherwise complete. Free to a good home. E-mail paws44@btinternet.com Phil
November 25, 2013 at 6:06 pm #3397vhgmcbuddy
MemberThanks for the message Phil. Being in S W Wales I’m probably too far from you.
November 25, 2013 at 7:21 pm #3401vhgmcbuddy
MemberFragonard my email is paulmackellow@aol.com, send me an email and I will sort out a copy for you…
November 25, 2013 at 7:59 pm #3402vhgmcbuddy
MemberThank you paulmackellow. I wonder if somebody can help me. I’ve got a kind of switch on the left hand arm/handle with a very thin electric wire leading from it. But when I got the rotavator, it didn’t lead to anywhere and was just wrapped around the bottom of the left arm. From what I can make out on the switch, it says ‘0’ and ‘1’ on it. I’m probably showing my complete ignorance of things mechanichal but what’s this and where should it go? I’m not sure if it’s to be seen on Stuart’s photo althugh I can see a slim wire running along the bottom of the left arm on the first photo but I can’t see a switch.
November 25, 2013 at 10:21 pm #3408vhgmcbuddy
MemberIts the engine stop button. It goes to the magneto and earths one side of the points to stop the engine. Phil
November 25, 2013 at 10:23 pm #3409stuart
ParticipantYes mine has the original engine “cut-out” switch on the LH handles.To stop the engine i just press the red button.Its spring loaded and therefore returns to the “engine running” position when released.
Your switch would also have a wire going down to the magneto (behind the flywheel).The position “O” is OFF and position “I” is ON.You really need to connect the switch up to enable the engine to be stopped in the proper manner…..ie by grounding out (earthing out) the ignition low tension circuit.November 25, 2013 at 10:23 pm #3410vhgmcbuddy
MemberMy Iseki MC1 has a switch on the handlebars that does the same job.
November 25, 2013 at 10:32 pm #3411vhgmcbuddy
MemberMine doesn’t start at the moment. Would this wire not being attached to the magneto prevent if from starting?
November 25, 2013 at 10:33 pm #3412stuart
ParticipantWhich part of the country are you in Phil ??
Thanks for those pictures and measurememnts of the engine cover…..i,ll see what i can make up.
Refer to my pic on the other forum…….just below and to the Left of the red drive belt pulley on the reduction gearbox you will see the 2 screws and also cast into the alloy casing “OIL LEVEL”.If you want me to take another closer up picture of it for you i can do.November 25, 2013 at 10:58 pm #3414vhgmcbuddy
MemberStuart,
I think I know what you’re referring to now. But it wasn’t what I was trying to describe earlier. If you look at your 3rd image down. In the bottom left hand corner is a metal tube with a black cap on it. I’m missing the black cap. This is another place to insert oil isn’t it? What type of oil should this be?
November 26, 2013 at 8:57 am #3425charlie
KeymasterThe wire from the switch not being connected will not stop the engine running. However if the end from the engine is touching any of the metalwork it could as it will be earthing the ignition.
November 26, 2013 at 5:33 pm #3429vhgmcbuddy
MemberHow much of a job is it to replace the lead to the spark-plug? It’s a bit worn om a couple of places.
November 26, 2013 at 7:05 pm #3433wristpin
ParticipantSome HT leads were screwed onto a spike in a recess cast into the coil and then sealed with some form of mastic/adhesive. Others were joined to the coil secondary winding before the coil “potting” material was cast around them. Problem is that unless you know you may **** a perfectly good coil in the process of finding out.
Unless you are looking for a cosmetically original/perfect result I’d slide a length of shrink insulation tubing over the existing lead.November 26, 2013 at 7:16 pm #3438vhgmcbuddy
MemberStuart, I am in North Nottinghamshire. Phil
November 26, 2013 at 7:25 pm #3439stuart
ParticipantYes thats the oil filler tube for the chaincase.Again there is an “oil level” screw on the side of the casing.Im sure SAE30 grade oil will be fine for the chaincase.
I suspect if your engine does not start it has lost its spark due to standing / not used for a long time ??.If this is the case then the flywheel will need removing to access to the magneto (contact breakers and condensor).You really need a proper removal tool for this flywheel.Do NOT hit the flywheel or the end of the crankshaft with a hammer in an attempt to remove it !!.I used one of my flywheel removal tools and it was very tight on the taper !!.
The carburettor would need a thorough cleaning too i suspect.Where are you located as i could get it running for you. -
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