Some clear and precise close-up pics would help.

Andy.

I should add that in fig 56 of my last post, there is a rod with a letter A and a rotation symbol . That is for a “ universal” engine with no remote throttle. If yours has a cable throttle control, that rod will not be present.

Your code number shows that it was made in 82 so the post 81 manual applies .
The second rod is included in the standard build engine assuming no remote throttle. If you have a cable throttle it is likely to be as per the insert illustration as in 56. – always assuming that your machine has not been re-engined. If I come across one still in place I discard it, as it serves no purpose and is just another thing to line up. The 56 illustration is about as good as it gets and is actually a fairly good representation of the set up in the metal.
When reassembling from a tank off situation , I find it best to offer up the tank without screwing it into place and then hooking up the gov spring – just gives one that little extra bit of space . With the spring hooked up insert the two manifold screws but not tight, then the single screw at the bottom of the tank bracket while there’s still a bit of wriggle room to align all three.
While you have the tank of it may be useful to put a straight edge across the manifold flange in case it’s a bit bowed due to over tightening . If so run a file over it. I always put a smear of heavy grease on both sides of the gasket and a drop of blue Loctite on the manifold screws – keeps them snug without the need/risk of over tightening. The latest version of those screws have recessed Torx heads which are far more accessible and easier for controlled tightening.
Should just say that it would be usual to fit a piano wire control cable that pushes and pulls without the need for what I would describe as a return spring but it may just be a difference in terminology.