Vintage Horticultural and Garden Machinery Club

I have some very good ones available Mick.I have the normal slasher tines as well as the finger tines.Send me a PM for more details.

The only way to get them of when they are seized / rusted on the threaded shaft is to use a pin punch and a hammer.Naturally this destroys them but as you are fitting new ones is does not matter.

The oil level screw is on the RH side of the chaincase (look in the area behind the wheel).To check the oil level remove the screw and tip the machine forwards (lift the handles up) so its resting on the engine platform.If oil level is correct it should trickle out the hole.Use SAE80/90 grade oil.

BTW when you select reverse gear on the 300 / 350 / 352 models you have to physically hold the gear lever in its position all the time as its spring loaded.As soon as you release the lever the machine will come to a halt.Its a safety feature.Let us know if the cable adjustment makes any difference.

The double pulley arrangement is for a reverse drive but there is lots of parts missing on your machine for it to work.It was originally available as a “kit” to make the rotavator more versatile.

When the clutch lever is released on the handles the drive belt should release from the pulleys and the large transmission input pulley should stop turning.Only select gear when the pulley is stationary otherwise you are going to damage the gears in the gearbox / transmission (they may already be damaged though if its been used like this :(:(:(:().

A square / flat key should be easy to make for the large pulley / chaincase input shaft.I see it has a large double pulley arrangement which means its had a reverse drive set up fitted.The rotors (tines) look ok to me from the pics so should still be serviceable ??.The belt tensioning jockey pulley does look a bodge i agree.However im sure you can…[Read more]

The belt tensioning pulley assy is not original Junior.Its been “modified” presumably because the original clutch worn out.Also the engine is a later 7hp (or maybe 8hp) B&S.

Im sure the model you have Junior is a Dowdeswell 352.Early models had a 5hp B&S engine whilst later ones used the MAG/KUBOTA engine.

Those freewheels act like a differential to make turning easier.If you lift the rear of the mower up using the handles (so the rollers are off the ground) put your foot against one roller half then engage the drive lever……..you should find that the other roller half turns and visa versa.
Only use genuine Hayter belts and check the cable…[Read more]

I would guess its a similar set up to the Merry Tiller and countless other similar type machines…..the rotor shaft runs on needle type bearings or ball bearings with oil seals on the end.All will be apparent when you split the chaincase.

Have you checked your valve clearences ??.

Its a Brockhouse SPRYT 2-stroke engine as fitted in the BMB “Hoemate” 2 wheeled garden tractor of the 1940,s / 1950,s.
They are cracking little engines (well I like them anyway :):)).Have you got the alloy engine cowling as you must not run it without it fitted !!
I have a complete BMB Hoemate plus a couple of spare engines.One of these engines…[Read more]

Whereabouts are you located ?

Just unscrew the knurled / chrome top on top of the carburettor and pull the throttle slide out of the body.In the centre of the slide there is a small brass screw with a slot in it.Screwing it in lengthens the needle making a weaker mixture and unscrewing it richens the mixture.Set the needle to 2,3/8″ out from where it exits the bottom of the…[Read more]

My Hoemate is unfortunately buried in my fathers storage container otherwise I could of taken some measurements for you.Im sure another Hoemate owner on here will be able to help you Dan.

OK just looked in my MK25C owners manual and the needle should be set at 2,3/8″ (two and three eighths inches) for the “Lightweight” carburettor.

Im sure you could fabricate an engine cowling.Maybe even cut up and modify an easily found steel cowling like from a Villiers,JAP,Briggs and Stratton,or Techumseh engine ?? At least with steel its easily welded (or personally I would bronze weld it as it makes a much nicer and neater job).

Yes the engine most definitely has a cowling otherwise it would not be cooled.The cowling is made from sheet aluminium (not cast).

Maybe the carb is set too rich ??.There is a correct length to set the tapered needle at in the throttle slide (using the brass screw on top of the slide).I will have a look in my Villiers MK25C book for the correct length if you think this may be your problem.