[disco2]

Hi it’s Will I have a suspicion that the springs may have been removed at some point. Both sides look the same and both plungers have their grooved ends. Not sure why they would be removed but now I can see the diagram and apart from the springs everything else is present and intact. I will see if it’s possible to get hold of a couple of new springs.
Thanks for your help and advice again it’s much appreciated
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi it’s Will I have used JB weld to glue clutch shoe linings back on for my brushcutter also used it on a Hayter Osprey drive clutch both with good results. I tend to give the metal a rough up to give the glue something to grip to. Fingers crossed for you.
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi it’s Will thank you for your reply the belt tensioner is interesting I tried it with the tensioner on the bottom run thinking it was set up wrong but it seemed to slip a lot when I tried it so I will return it back to the top position it makes sense that you don’t want the tensioner on the pulling side of the belt. It reminds me of my days on tracked diggers you always travel with the drive sprockets at the back to keep tension on the bottom of the track otherwise you get bunchimg on the bottom which can end up with a thrown track. Ilike the walking stick term is there a seperate plunger between the spring and the long centre rod? I removed the latch and the rod . When I look through the slot it looks like either the top of a plunger or the bottom of the tube although if its the bottom there must be a false bottom as its almost in line with the bottom of the slot not the end of the tube. Hope that makes sense. Yes not much more to do apart from a couple of seized reel adjusters and a new bush on the mid mower belt tensioner. I look forward to using it once we get some grass to cut rather than spreading dead grass and dust.
Thanks for your help and advice
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi all just a quick update on the progress so far. I finally managed to get the calipers apart with a combination of heat a hammer and half a can of old model aircraft fuel. The fuel is a bit random but I found it in the shed it was a dark colour so no good for engines I cut the top off the 5ltr can and submerged the parts after they had been heated and left to go cold obviously. Don’t know if it made any real difference but after a few days of soaking the calipers came apart family easily. I will need new brake pads and will give the discs a skim on my lathe. It does make me smile when I look at how substantial the brakes are on these machine’s it looks like tank technology.
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi that’s brilliant thank you so much that makes sense now. It’s stupidly simple inside and now I know how much I can whack it.
Thanks again for your help and advice
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi it’s Will thanks for the advice on the brick cleaner I gave one assembly a good cook in a fire yesterday so fingers crossed I might be able to start a course of hammer treatment later. I just wanted to clarify does both of the round under parts come out (adjuster bolt side and lever side ) and do they both come out on the lever side. I can’t get my head around how they actually work I can’t find any parts diagram for them. I’m sure once apart it will be obvious.
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi it’s Will thanks for getting back to me I never thought of using brick cleaner before and funny thing is I have a friend who has about 1000ltrs of the stuff. Yes the pads are out but I don’t think the assembly has moved in years the previous owner said he never used the brakes. When you say bicarbonate of soda do you mean the stuff you use in baking or am I confusing it with something else? Sorry if that a stupid question.
Thanks for your help and advice
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi it’s Will I have managed to remove one of the calipers today and can now see how it all works. The plunger are well and truly stuck I wondered about using some heat on the caliper but it is iron so I’m thinking probably not. I have been successful in removing lister d flywheels using a propane torch and gradually heating it all up but this feels a bit risky I don’t want to crack or distort the caliper. I wondered what your thoughts are. It’s soaking in penetrating fluid for a week now so it might free up anyway.
Thanks for your help and advice
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi it’s Will thanks that’s great I have replaced the long belt and was lead to believe that the other one had been recently replaced but the engine is a far forward as it will go and it still slips in high transport speed.I wonder if its the wrong belt. I might replace it with a new one as per your numbers. I was planning on working on it on Tuesday but there was a fire in the field behind my house and we had to be evacuated . Everything is fine so will have a look another day.
Best wishes William

[disco2]

Hi it’s Will thanks for the quick reply and taking the time to give such a detailed explanation I will have a look tomorrow. I need to free off the reel adjusters as well it’s been standing for several years. A bit of heat a penetrating fluid worked well on 2 of them already. This one has the Kubota diesel engine . I might have to change the engine to first pulley belt as it’s fully adjusted but still slips in 2nd transport speed. Do you happen to know the belt details or where I can find one in Essex?
Thanks for your help and advice
Best wishes William.

[Author]

Posts