[charlie]

barrryg and andy I have a manual with parts list in my collection that includes the B24 carb as fitted to the 700. I can scan and e mail a copy if you want one, just send me a pm with your e mail address.

[charlie]

That looks like the Villiers engine, a 28B 7hp two stroke according to 70 Years of Garden Machinery by Brian Bell. Meetens, amongst others, should be able to supply parts for the engine. I have always thought the 700 was the best machine made by Howard, very versatile. Good luck.

[charlie]

I have had a look in the galleries section of the website and found these images showing a Mayfield hoe and mow. Very similar but drive casing seems to be more upright on hoe and mow, it also has a triangular frame down to the wheels, I still think the handlebars are Merry Tiller.

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[charlie]

The Coleby looks as if it has been modified too.

[charlie]

May be the Villiers Mk10 was an earlier version?

[charlie]

Handle bars look like Merry Tiller, so does the chassis. Could this be a modified Merry Tiller that someone has added an Albion gear box to? A photo of the other side would help.

[charlie]

Renewal notices will be sent out with the December issue of The Cultivator.

[charlie]

Ben, colour matching can be difficult as many of our machines have spent years out in all weathers and colours fade. If you can find an area not exposed to the elements and sun, this will give best match. The Clifford Mk1 was a burgundy colour not orange.
Spray or brush really depends if you have equipment and skill to spray, aerosol cans can get expensive. If you opt for brushing ensure you get a paint intended for brushing and buy the best quality brush you can, be prepared to spend more time rubbing down than actually painting to achieve a good flat finish with no brush strokes. Ensure all paints you use are compatible.
Your paint supplier should be able to provide the correct primer and undercoat. If painting aluminium you will need to use an etch primer.
Here is a link to a photo of my SIMAR 35 which I brush painted, my first attempt at such a job.

[charlie]

Dave this is a link to JAP engine dates

[charlie]

The problem with a simple resistance check is it cannot take account of running conditions ie insulation can break down as soon as coil starts working. If a good clean of points and mating surfaces between coil and backplate etc does not give a good spark, I replace coil, points and condenser, not a cheap option but it does ensure a good spark. Do not buy cheap or secondhand coils.

[charlie]

Alan it just shows you never know who is about or when, glad to hear they failed. In addition to noting serial numbers etc it might be worth using a security marking system such as Selecta DNA which can help identify recovered parts should a machine be broken for spares.

[charlie]

You will soon have a load more adverts to look at, should arrive in next day or two.

[charlie]

Something like WD40 would help.

[charlie]

seems to work for me

[charlie]

I would suggest making another cut opposite the first, be careful not to cut into carrier. Then apply some heat to sleeve, then cool by spraying sleeve with penetrating fluid or WD40, hopefully the thermal shock will break the bond between sleeve and carrier.

[Author]

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