Simar 56A Rototiller – Serial No. 561473

[andyfrost]

I would have persevered with a different method of removal , you may well have upset the balance of the flywheel by your methods.

Andy.

[aquila787]

Andy

I knew that before I started. I might refill those holes and see can I balance it some way.
I doubt it would have come off any other way. The starting ring was beginning to break apart when I tried that.

John

[aquila787]

I have a couple of questions for ye….
1. I attach a picture and am wondering what the split pin is for?

2. How to remove the Big End bearing. Picture attached as well.

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[john-e-w]

Is it a pin, or a broken piston ring?

John E-W

[aquila787]

It’s a split pin for sure. Looks like there’s a flange on the bottom of the cylinder but I wouldn’t be sure. It stops the piston coming out the bottom. The pin doesn’t come out the cylinder either.

[charlie]

When I have stripped one of these engines the piston comes out via the bottom of the cylinder and goes back in the same way. There is a chamfer on the bottom of the cylinder to aid getting the piston rings and piston in. I don’t recall seeing a split pin but will have to look at an engine I have in bits at present. It could be the pin that stops the piston rings turning.
Do you have a copy of the parts book? If not I can supply a scanned copy, very useful for identifying parts.
The crank pin is held in by a tapered pin pressed into the end of the crank pin. Splitting the crank is not a job for the amateur as it requires a press and suitable tooling to remove the pin. Reassembly is even harder as it is critical to get all the parts correctly aligned. An engineering company specialising in motorcycle 2 stroke engines may be able to carry out the work.

[aquila787]

Thanks Charlie. I could use a copy of the parts book please. Might not have to take the crank apart…..hopefully…..Will try get the piston out the bottom today. A lot of this is learning for me.
Thanks again.

John

[aquila787]

Thanks for the books Charlie.

I attach pictures of the piston and cylinder which finally came apart just now. The cylinder looks OK but I won’t know for certain till later. The piston has a little damage. Rings were broken. And a break between the rings as well.

Anyway what do ye think…..is it repairable?

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[charlie]

The break in the piston is probably where the broken ring came out. It would be worth cleaning the piston to see how bad the scoring is. You will need new piston rings, not sure if the break in the piston will cause ring failure again as ring will not be supported by groove in piston at that point.

[aquila787]

Now how do I remove this wrist pin. I dont want to do harm finding out. Picture attached

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[wristpin]

#38778

aquila787

Participant
I bought a can of owatrol oil yesterday. Supposed to be good. I’ll try it and see.

No one commented when the above was posted, but……
Owatrol is a paint additive or patina preservative, not a penetrating oil.
Plus Gas is probably the best proprietory penetrant – preferably in a can and not aerosol. Diesel of either colour or Kero is very good, particularly if the parts can be dropped into a bucket of it and left for a few days.
Our transatlantic cousins seem to favour a home brew of Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone.

[aquila787]

Hi Wristpin

Attached is photo of the can of Owatrol oil.
It’s definitely better than WD40 anyway.

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[wristpin]

Ah, looks like we are talking about a different product, but even so the blurb for your tin seems to be saying that it’s for “penetrating wood” preservation, not as in penetrating rusted / frozen metal components. However, if it works for you, so be it.

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[aquila787]

Wristpin

No I think you’re getting it wrong. Read it in this photo….not the one you added

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[charlie]

To remove gudgeon pin (wristpin) remove the clips part number 10297, see parts manual plate 2 for illustration.

[Author]

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