Howard 350 cone clutch friction material greasy.

[rjy]

This is the clutch mentioned in “Howard 350 cone clutch corrosion/friction material” Howard 350 cone clutch corrosion/friction material.

The clutch friction material is still in place, stuck to the aluminium alloy inner with chemical metal, which is good. However, too much grease on the splines (or perhaps in the bearing) has led to the whole lot being lubricated by flung grease.

I have tried to wipe/wash off the grease, using petrol, but there will be some residue. Is there a better way/does the contamination matter?

• This topic was modified 5 months, 1 week ago by rjy.

[davidbliss]

On those it makes no difference as long as they don’t slip. more the same with plate types, grease going very gummy isn’t good, I sort out car cone and plate clutches, some are dry others are wet, however the bit in-between can cause thousands of pounds damage, this is because the know it alls change the material as is very critical, some leather clutches can have a modern material used from a conveyor belt and works dry, where the leather needs treating a few times in 60 plus years. you need a very deep pocket to put things right.
I think it was a 350 that was baptised for a few days, with age grease was dry and add water it had locked up the clutch, I can’t remember, but to preserve the pulley wheel as hadn’t be moved in years, had to remove part of the flange on the splined hub with a die grinder to be able in getting at the cir clip it then was able to be taken apart, once apart removed the remaining flange and used a thick washer I believe the spring sat on it, worked a treat, only part needed was a condenser coil was still ok.

[rjy]

OK, I put it all back together, and it does not seem to be slipping. I see that relined cone clutches are £200 to £150ish!

[rjy]

£100 to £150….

[davidbliss]

That sounds quite a bit, however it depends where you go, just remember with a cone it isn’t a strait strip, but a flattened C so it just lays flat, just try a strait strip of paper to see what happens, of cause you can use brute force. A friend wanted to renew his cone tin-work on his cement mixer barrel, plenty of cardboard scissors and gaffer tape, rapped round then you have a pattern.

• This reply was modified 5 months ago by davidbliss.

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[rjy]

I had thought of making a new lining, but the material is another issue. It would have to be something that is not going to wear the steel outer cone, and is pliable enough to bend. Don’t know what was originally used.

[davidbliss]

some of the linings to start with are very soft and pliable like thick rubber so not a problem, once fitted you can set the cure by heating in a ordinary oven, the longer its left in the harder the lining gets, so once heated it sets to that time its left in and if taken out early will be soft, and no amount of heat after that will make it hard.

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