[wristpin]

Thinking about your mention of the pole pieces fouling the flywheel . Could you have a combination of crank and main bearing wear allowing some lift of the crank causing both the fouling and the difficult points setting ? Grasp the flywheel and check for discernible lift. Not on an Allen Scythe, but on Suffolk four stroke engine I have seen such wear that the points could be opened and closed just by lifting the flywheel.

[wristpin]

Thinking about your mention of the pole pieces fouling the flywheel . Could you have a combination of crank and main bearing wear allowing some lift of the crank causing both the fouling and the difficult points setting ? Grasp the flywheel and check for discernible lift. Not on an Allen Scythe, but on Suffolk four stroke engine I have seen such wear that the points could be opened and closed just by lifting the flywheel.

Edit
Just has a dig into a box of new old stock points and found these two with decidedly different heal profiles

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[wristpin]

When it comes to Allen scythes I’m a bit out of my comfort zone but I do remember that back in the day there were two very similar sets of points that were fractionally different . The difference , if I remember correctly, was the profile / height of the nylon heal that ran on the cam. It may be totally irrelevant to your issue, but may be worth checking.

[wristpin]

Suggest that you post an image of what you have. Meanwhile I’ll see if I can dig out my machine and get a pic.

[wristpin]

You’ve got a Hayter Harrier. Two options of cable . Do you squeeze the clutch lever to stop or squeeze it to move.

[wristpin]

I’ve got the same lump even down to the year on a Merrytiller, unfortunately it’s buried at the back of the shed but I hope that this helps.

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[wristpin]

Give us clue! Is your lump a vertical or horizontal crank ? Even better how about Model, Type and Code numbers, or even an image or two.

[wristpin]

Have a look at some of the BS advanced service info
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/eu/en_gb/support/faqs/browse/ignition-system-theory-and-testing.html

[wristpin]

Are there any magneto experts on here, I have a question about my magneto on my graveley walk behind tractor, I have a single red wire coming out of the coil that goes to the spring part of the points it is joined by the wire from the condenser and a wire that goes through the body to the kill switch but even with the coil wire disconnected I have continuety between the coil wire and any point on the tractor as though there is a direct connection,my question is has the coil broken down or is this correct.

Going back to your original post , I think that you are “ over thinking” the issue as it all seems to be as it should. It runs, and it stops. Both the primary and the secondary coil winding are grounded at one end so a meter connected across their respective windings will always show continuity. The kill wire disconnected from the points should not show continuity between itself and ground unless there is either a fault or the kill button is pressed. That’s all there is to it.

[wristpin]

That wire goes to the coil primary winding. The other end of the winding is earthed so you will have continuity.

[wristpin]

From the look of your images The problem could be that you are trying to cut off too much at a time. I think that you should see an improvement if you get the grass down to the stage where you are only cutting off half inch at a time. Also I think that you will find that the deflector or throw plate behind the cutting cylinder has slots where it’s secured to the engine platform. Try moving it so that where the part is in line with the cylinder centre shaft the gap is reduced.

[wristpin]

Quite a lot of Italian motor cycles used Scintilla magnetos so there’s an outside chance that there may be some compatibility.

[wristpin]

Can you be a bit more specific as to what machine you have. I have several Flymo/Norlett manuals but don’t know where to start looking. As ever, a couple of decent images many be useful.

[wristpin]

At various times when changes of UK support was in process we had difficulty with spares, i

My memory is of continuous problems with spares – including when the French factory shut down for a very extended summer break !

[wristpin]

As far as I know , Dori machines were made in France, the German connection is just the JLO engine. We sold Dori machines, mainly cultivators, in the 90s. Our suppliers were Tylers of Blackboys (E. Sussex) who subsequently disposed of their garden machinery business to Godfreys of Sevenoaks (Kent). I sold my business and retired in 2012 and the last BAGMA Garden Machinery Price Guide that I have (May 2012) does not list Dori so it would appear that they had withdrawn from the UK market by then – or even ceased to exist.
None of the above is much help for your immediate problem but it might be just worth contacting Godfreys parts department, even if it is just to find out that obtaining what you need is a lost cause.

Godfreys Sevenoaks Limited. Address : Otford Road, Sevenoaks, Kent – TN14 5EG. Tel : 01732741177 ..

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