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Thanks Tom

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Already loaded up, SIMAR 56 plough. (In truth I was loaded up for event yesterday but didn’t go! No point unloading it and having to load up again)

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Before going too far with disassembly, have you had cover off mag to check points are clean, working and at right gap? Just a thought, might save a lot of work. If that’s ok then next suspect is probably condenser. Members of the forum have these spare, or you could try Easycap which I’ve done and it works well.
I’ve repaired two mags now, I’m certainly no expert, if I can do it I’m sure anyone can! Like you I didn’t fancy the cost of the expert rebuild.
Good luck!

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At least a nice easy fix Charlie!

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Thanks. I look forward to expert advice!

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That’s great to hear Carl. Tough old machines, these SIMARS. Hopefully you will get manifold repaired ok.

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Interesting Charlie. I have tried following the recommendation in the past but the gearbox oil seemed to drain into the engine causing problems starting in new season. I know, I should get around to renewing seals!

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Hi Dave
This is annoying, I used to have one of these but didn’t keep a copy of the engine manual. SAE 40 is definitely too thick. From memory I’m pretty sure for UK climate it’s SAE20, for warmer countries SAE30. But I could be wrong. These are heavy engines to turn over, especially when cold in winter, at one time I put too thick oil in (30 I think) and could hardly turn it over in winter.
Peter

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Hi Carl. I’ve never had this happen, but if it did I’d be tempted to remove plug and spin engine over several times. Then a squirt of oil in cylinder, spin over again, clean plug and try to start and if it goes leave it running for a good time to throughly warm up. After stopping immediately open drain tap to let oil etc out. I’m thinking the sooner you get it running and oil circulated around, the less chance of internal corrosion. Charlie, I hasten to say, may well know better!
Stable doors and horses, but I put an empty dog food tin over all my SIMAR exhausts to stop water getting in when in storage.
Peter

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Finally, have you seen Sean’s excellent restoration of a 56? The link may help you with yours.

Simar 56A Rototiller – Serial No. 561621

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Here’s the second photo

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If you engage forward gear and turn engine over, if the inner castellated hub is turning then all you need to do is follow my advice above. The photos show first the forward drive ratchets then the pawls which allows the machine to reverse.

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Great news Alastair!
Regarding your drive problem, have you checked to see if the ratchets and pawls are engaged between the hubs and wheels? For forward drive both ratchets need to be engaged (they’re the ones with springs on them). In addition if you permanently engage one of the pawls (the ones which are just on hinges) it will engage reverse to the selected wheel making the machine turn in one direction when reversing. It makes turning round at the end of the row easier.
Peter

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Iain, reading back over the posts, your “bang, bang,” might imply timing. Did you really mean you’d set it to spark at TDC? If so you need to set it to BTDC. Don’t know the exact setting for your application but I’ve attached a front photo of a SIMAR. The two round marks on the flywheel case are about the right distance apart.
Other than that I might suspect the impulse mechanism not working properly, as you are certainly getting a spark at low revs.
Peter

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Iain, here’s a link to Sean’s excellent restoration of a 56 which you might find useful if you haven’t already seen it.
There’s a lot of information on magnetos and where he got parts from. Or, just a thought, there’s a few cheap series A’s on that auction website at the moment with good sparks which you could get the coil from.
Peter

Simar 56A Rototiller – Serial No. 561621

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