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Viewing 10 posts - 31 through 40 (of 40 total)
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  • #2493
    jim-beacon
    Participant

    Thanks for your birthday wishes!

    Jim.

    #2490
    jim-beacon
    Participant

    Hi Rob,

    third gear (top) is for moving the machine only. Rotovating can be done in first or second, with the drive wheels engaged, the gear you choose will be goverend byt the soil conditions – light sandy soil, you’ll get away with second, heavy clay, or lots of vegetation to get through, use first.
    The lever on the back of main body, by the rotovator box is to disengage the drive from the wheels. It should be engaged before putting the machine in gear (not always possible, as the dog clutch doesn’t always line up, but engage it in first, then change up, don’t try to engage it in second or third).
    The small pegs on the wheels are for ratchet hubs, when out, the wheels should be on a ratchet, similar to a push bike freewheel, to allow for easier turning, when in, the hubs are locked. If the wheel ratchets aren’t engaginf, they will at least need cleaning and lubricating, but may need new springs. You need to lock the hubs to use reverse, and they are best locked for rotovating, especially if you wnat to go in a straight line!
    Speaking of reverse, take great care, as the rotovator tines will continue to turn, and if you fall, it will go right over you (you get the – messy- picture).
    You are also missing the rotovator depth gauge – this is a piece of steel strip with a number of holes for the depth, and a small picec of flat plate welded on the end to make a foot. There should be a spring loaded peg in the top of the rotovator box to hold it in place, but it often goes missing.
    Hope that helps!
    Jim.

    #2208
    jim-beacon
    Participant

    This one is definatly a bodge job, and it came with its original seized Mk25c. There is an adaptor plate to amtch the mounting holes between the scythe and the engine, and a horrible arrangement for the throttle.
    The owner is familiar with old 2 strokes, so returning it to its original spec is probably for the best!

    #2195
    jim-beacon
    Participant

    Couldn’t make the link work, and now I can’t edit the original post!

    Try this:

    http://www.g1jbg.co.uk/autoculto/

    #2191
    jim-beacon
    Participant

    I have one here that has a Kohler engine on it – funnily enough, it is about to go back to a Villiers 25C as I can get the parts easily, and it is suitable for field maintainance (it is a working machine). The engine was changed due to the original seizing, but I have managed to obtain a short engine to rebuild it.

    Jim.

    #1981
    jim-beacon
    Participant

    There’s often some blue smoke with those engines – run it under load for a while, and then look at the spark plug. It may well run a little rich (may be adjustable, depending on which carb it has), or it may be a little worn and sucking up a bit of oil.
    In fact, check that it isn’t overfilled with oil first!

    Jim.

    #1901
    jim-beacon
    Participant

    This issue seems to be resolved, at least for me. I can see all of the posts in a thread now.

    Jim.

    #1899
    jim-beacon
    Participant

    Alan Rogers will probably be able to tell you if the engine matches the frame, but I think they are of the same period.
    The wheels are off a much later machine, po9ssibly a Norlett, but I’m not entirely sure. They look like good ones though!

    #1800
    jim-beacon
    Participant

    Behaviour is the same with IE7, Firefox 24.0 and Chrome 30.0 running under Windows XP (all current updates installed).

    #1786
    jim-beacon
    Participant

    I’m experiencing the same problem – the first post of a thread is missing, I believe in all forums.

    Jim.

Viewing 10 posts - 31 through 40 (of 40 total)