Monro Tiller Mk 1

[charlie]

A good question and having a quick look at the series 1 gearbox casing I cannot see an obvious route. The instruction book indicates that oil will overflow from worm gear casing to main gearbox. To be safe I fill the main gearbox via the dipstick hole, a slow process, then fill worm gear via the filler. Later series 2 machines and all series 3 machines had a simple pump to pump oil upto the worm gears from the main box, each had its own dipstick.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I am glad we both agree on that , the only hole through to the bottom gear case is in the clutch housing where there should be no oil. I was thinking if there was a hole in the bottom of the worm chamber this would starve the worm and also overfill the lower gearcase. I think your advice to treat the chambers as separate gearboxes is the best going . Perhaps this explains the demise of the bearings and the worm and also the improvement in fitting the pumps to later models.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Trying to get some photos on running now.

[charlie]

Good to see it running, don’t run for too long without the cowling as it will overheat.

[vhgmcbuddy]

All back together now after straightening tinwork out and cleaning fuel tank out, I did this by putting some stones in and tiring it to the inside of the drum of my belle cement mixer , I kept vacuuming out muck then fresh stones ,I did this a few times then cleaned out with thinners came up like new inside. Since then I have stripped down rotorvator and cleaned up the bearings so turns very free now . I am going to leave the paintwork till next season once I know everything works ok .

[vhgmcbuddy]

In Trouble again.
Took Monro to Kellsall weekend , soon as we hit the dirt engine stopped suddenly and then refused to start , after lots of pulls on rope I noticed the odd time it would kick back so I thought with the sudden shock could the timming have slipped .

After stripping off the covers and cylinder head sure enough the timing was well out ,after resetting and rebuild the engine started first pull but know my clutch refused to operate and upon removing the cover I found the drive plate had all broken up so that was me out of the game although my mate Geraint let me plough wit his BMB Cult Mate.

The photos show the busted clutch and also the cowl where there never seems to have been an ID plate , does this make it an early machine.

Charlie could you fix us up with MT70 drive plate and MT 23 Ferodo disc to get us back on the road ?

Best Regards Swampy

[charlie]

Looking at the engine the fuel tank appears non original, possibly off a lawn mower looking at the fixing in the end. The engine cowl is a different colour to the gearbox again suggesting it is not original, what does the writing on the cover by the starter pullet say?
I have never seen a clutch drive plate break up to that extent. I did successfully make a temporary disc using thin plywood. It might be worth checking gearbox turns over OK to see what caused such a failure. I will have a look through parts to see if I can help but can’t make any promises.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Me and Rolo with the blown Monro.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I forgot to mention the writing surrounding the pulley is monro tiller very faint that’s the only way I knew what the machine was in the first place.

[charlie]

What is the odd bracket on top of the gearbox cover by the clutch lever? What does it do as I have not seen this on a Monro Tiller before.

[vhgmcbuddy]

This swings over and stops the clutch engaging without relying on the clutch cable I should think to aid easy starting .

[andyfrost]

Swampy , stick at it I’m sure you will get there eventually. Having never worked on any Monrotillers , I’m not in position to comment on their engineering standards , what I can say is that I’m now working on a Rowtrac (made by the same company) and the standard of design and engineering is truly woeful , with so many design flaws there is little wonder they never sold well.

Andy.

[charlie]

The Rowtrac was not designed by Geo Monro, the Monro Tiller was, designed by Harry Shickle and very solidly built. The clutch lock does not look original, those that I have seen are on the side of the gearbox. A close up of the lock and surrounding area would be useful.

[vhgmcbuddy]

If it is not original it is a very nice job , I will try and get some pic’s . Using some broard flat bar and what’s left of the old drive I have remade the drive to clutch then made a plate to suit out of ply , had a little go after fettling here and there works ok but will keep my eye on it during proper use . I personally think the machine is well made and all the problems I have found show signs off abuse and neglect which is why I have been determined to resurrect the little monkey.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Here’s some close up’s of that clutch pawl and the only ID plate on the machine .

[Author]

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