Trusty clutch.

[joegrgraham]

Hi all,
Having rebuilt the carb, my Briggs engined Trusty now runs sweetly.
My new issue is the clutch.
The drum seems to turn freely on the crank when turned by hand, but when the engine is running, the drums spins at engine speed through friction (no, the clutch is NOT engaged).
I initially thought that the added drag from the drive chain would stop this, but it hasn’t. I don’t want to try engaging the drive because space is tight and a runaway Trusty might not be a good thing!, I want to be sure that the thing won’t run away before I try it.
Has anyone got any tips for solving this?

Thanks, Joe.

[wristpin]

Don’t know anything about Trusty clutches but used to experience a similar problem with Ransomes Mastiffs where a small amount of wear in a bush in the centre of the centrifugal clutch would allow the drum to tip slightly and and bind on the clutch centre transmitting drive even though the revs were not sufficient to engage the shoes.

[joegrgraham]

That makes sense, thanks Angus.

[trustymasseyman]

From my trusty experience I would recommend you buy and replace the 2 springs in the clutch

[stevewoollas]

I’m with Ivan on this one. The most likely cause is the clutch springs are worn, (stretched slightly) preventing the clutch to contract fully at low speed. Replacements are available. Ring me on the club shop number in The Cultivator if you require a contact–Steve

[joegrgraham]

Hi again,
I stripped the clutch down today, and the springs, it’s fair to say, are cream-crackered. (Thanks Steve, I’ll be in touch shortly). Now, while it’s apart, it seems foolish not to replace the linings, so is it a case of buying some material and cutting it to size, or does anyone know if a commercially available lining kit for something else fits? (eg car drum brakes).
Also, the rubber on the bushes in the shoes is pretty tired, are bushes of the correct size available, or would I be better to leave them alone?.
Thanks,
Joe.

[stevewoollas]

Hello Joe,
Re-lining the shoes will be readily undertaken by any garage/specialist who offers a brake re-lining service. Often now a days this is restricted to a lorry garage, agricultural workshop or vintage speacialist. I do not know of any other shoe which fits the Trusty. I have not ever needed to replace the rubber bushes in the shoes so cannot help with that one other than to suggest a bearing/seal specialist may be able to match them as they would have been a standard off the shelf item when new.
Good luck with her–Steve

[charlie]

A word of warning, do not over tighten the bolt with a taper head on it. I did and split t he casting, which I then had to get welded.

[joegrgraham]

Charlie, I’m going to confess, I cracked the casting getting the taper bolt out! (my head is hung in shame!) It’s at the welders right now. Luckily, I’ve got a brilliant old boy near me who specialises in repairing engine blocks and manifolds, so I know it’ll be a good repair!.

Joe.

[charlie]

I suspect we are not alone.

[vhgmcbuddy]

If you have a look at my Norton Engined Trusty project on the old forum (http://www.tractorbox.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=6279), you will see I had my clutch shoes relined by Saftek of Cleckheaton (www.saftek.co.uk), for about £30.
I also replaced the rubber bushes, which were supplied by Robush (www.robush.co.uk), there part number being RB3752. They cost me £6.20 each exc VAT, but the carriage was an eye watering £12.15 exc VAT!! They were a perfect match for the originals though.
The dimensions of mine were 3/8″ ID, 13/16″ OD, 3/4″ outside length and 7/8″ inside length.

[joegrgraham]

Thanks for the info Sean, just had a look at your restoration, really good!. I spoke to a local Truck mechanic today about re-lining the shoes, and I’ll have a look at your source for the bushes.

Joe.

[hillsider]

This may help you to find a company to reline your clutch.

http://www.ferodo.com/en-gb/Network/Approved-Reline-Centres/Pages/Ferodo-Approved-Brake-Reline-centers.aspx

Ray.

[charlie]

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