Is it worth doing up a wolseley webb wizard rotovator

[vhgmcbuddy]

My grandad has said I can have his wizard rotovator with a 3hp briggs and Stratton engine but I don’t know if it’s worth doing up as it’s not sparking even with a new plug, It could do with a new air filter and crankcase gasket and there is play in the tines.
If I do decide to do it up is there someone I can download a copy for the torque settings.

Any info on this machine would be appreciated.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I would give it a chance, you can obtain Briggs parts easy and get plenty of help on here. I don’t know how long ago it was running, it might be just a case of cleaning the points to get a spark. I think I’ve got a manual, will have a look.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you for your reply.

The last time it was used was about five years ago. Would it be best to clean the points or change them as I don’t think the points have ever been changed.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I had a look at my Manual, the wizard engine briggs 3 HP has a magneto so no points. Can you find any identification numbers on the engine cover. To confirm this, I should have looked before I replied.

[vhgmcbuddy]

80202 0779-01 76073001

[stuart]

Unless that engine has already had a “Magnetron” ignition conversion it will have the contact breakers and condenser located behind the flywheel.B&S part number for a replacement ignition set (points and condenser) is 294628.Set points gap to 020″

[vhgmcbuddy]

Apologies for my second reply regarding no points. I have since look up Briggs models 80200 – 80292 and seen that I was wrong. Sorry for any confusion.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you for your reply.

The rotavator was repaired about 6 years ago as I don’t think it was firing and the pull cord either snapped or it was slipping. I don’t think it’s had a magnetron ignition conversion but I will try and check later when I collect the rotavator. If I change the points will I need a new points plunger 65704S

[hillsider]

Try cleaning the points with a fine abrasive strip before replacing them, there is probably a layer of oxide formed on the contact faces that is preventing them from sparking, it works most times that I have tried it.
Re the plunger unless it is damaged or badly worn just check that it moves freely in the hole that it is located in they can become stuck or even seized by dry lubricant.

[stuart]

There is a service limit (minimum length) for the plunger but as my B&S manuals are at my workplace I cant look it up for you at this time.The plunger is made from some sort of fibre material and does wear of course.If the points and condenser have not been changed in years then simply fit a new set (unless you have the equipment to check the condenser and satisfy yourself that its ok to reuse).

[sidevalve44]

Fit the magnetron conversion. You don’t have to remove the flywheel then which if you don’t have the right tools is difficult. I fitted it to the Briggs on my Wizard and it’s quite easy to fit. Also a good idea to overhaul the carb and fit a new plug too. Contact Briggsbits for parts.

Recently, I fitted a 5.5HP Chinese built Honda copy which cost less than re-building the Briggs (£117) Only required a mod to the belt tensioner, otherwise it was straightforward.

Merry Tiller spares on line stock many of the other parts you may need.

So yes, the Wizard is worth restoring. I’ve had mine 4 years now and it’s given sterling service and was worth the expense.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I need some advice on what’s best to do as when I removed the flywheel I found this in the photo and when I went to clean the points the metal wire snapped.

Attachments:

1. 

[charlie]

The attached extracts from B&S workshop manual should help.

Attachments:

1. 

1. BS-ignition1.pdf
2. BS-ignition3.pdf

[vhgmcbuddy]

Do you know where I can get a copy of the torque settings for the engine.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Before I wasted £15 on points and condenser I tested the coil from the end of the spark plug lead to the metal body and got a reading of 2.70 ohm. If I test the lead that comes from the coil to the condenser it gives a reading then drops down to 0.00, So should I be testing for continuity instead.

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