Howard Rotavator 200 Spares

[lurch]

Hi All,

I’ve been given an old Howard 200 with a Briggs and Stratton 3hp engine.

I’m working on getting the engine running at the moment. The rotavator itself is a little rusty here and there but overall looks in OK shape.

The tyres seem to be worn completely flat though, I wondered if anyone can advise on where I can find replacements and if there’s a knack to replacing them?

Thanks.

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[andyfrost]

I run and use a couple of 200s , they’re great little machines , albeit mine are the later version with the heavy duty chunkier tyres , yours is the early version , and tyres were a problem. My only suggestion is , as others have done is to glue heavy duty cambelt material to your existing wheels , original new ones are not available.
One thing I must point out , your engine is not really a suitable replacement for the original in that it has a reduction box fitted , and hence the gearing will be totally wrong.

Andy.

• This reply was modified 2 weeks, 6 days ago by andyfrost.

[lurch]

Thanks for the reply @andyfrost, would you know if it’s possible to swap the wheels out for later wheels?

If not, I think I’ll have to take a look at the cambelt approach. Thanks.

Thanks for the feedback on the engine. I’ve been focusing on getting the engine running, purely because that’s the main thing preventing the whole thing from running and something I can get stuck into, but I’m not familiar with these things and I’ve got no idea what to expect once it’s sorted.

[andyfrost]

The later type wheels will not fit , hence I suggested the cambelt approach, Those little Briggs engines are very reliable and easy to work on , first thing is sort the spark out , and move on to the carb , give it a thorough clean ,along with the tank, and most importantly fit a new GENUINE diaphragm. Any problems , then report back.

Andy.

[sidevalve5]

Concur with Andy, get a good spark first, then clean the carb thoroughly and fit a new diaphragm. Have fitted pattern ones and have had no problem with them. If the ignition is a points type, its not the best design. I get to them by using an air chisel with a point fitted and put it on the crankshaft end. A put a prybar behind the flywheel, give the chisel a buzz whilst GENTLY putting pressure on the flywheel. If the combined points condenser, or the coil is duff. I would personally replace it with a transistorized module. Its a dead easy swap and the spark is much stronger. These small engines have a similar rev range and power delivery, so do not think swapping the original for another type will make too much difference to the machine’s operation. A good idea to fit a toothed belt to replace the original tyres.

[lurch]

Thanks for the pointers @andyfrost, @sidevalve5.

I’ve checked spark is OK and had the engine running briefly when dropping some fuel down the carb.

Initially there was a horrific screeching sound but after cleaning the starter clutch and oiling the tiny felt pad on that, it now runs for a few seconds without any awful sounds.

I’ve got a new diaphragm and a couple of other parts that were missing from the carb so hopefully I can get those fitted this week and get it running properly.

[andyfrost]

That sounds like a good result , the new diaphragm should cure the issues you mention , above all , be sure to run it on E5 fuel , E10 will ruin the diaphragm in very little time.
The reduction box I mentioned on your engine “MAY” be OK , I see from the pics that it has a fairly large pulley on it , so depending on what the box ratio is it could well work…….the only way is to get it up and running and try.

Andy.

[sidevalve5]

Great you have a spark. The screeching sound is from the loose ball bearings inside the retractable starter. The fix is to take it apart, clean the dirt out and reassemble DRY. You may have done this already though. The dirt in one of mine has worn the aluminium tracks and balls. Cleaning did help a lot, but it still screeches sometimes and prevents the cord from going back in. A few gentle tugs on the cord and it does rewind. It used to do it after a few minutes work, the cord popped out too, which was a pain as I had to disengage the clutch, walk round to fiddle with it. But now, if it does it at all, it’s just after it has started.

A new diaphragm is a must for B&S engines if they do not start. After reassembly I would put your hand over the carb inlet and give it a few pulls. Then look inside the carb, you should see some petrol at the bottom. It shows the diaphragm has pulled up the fuel into the little reservoir in the tank and then the main jet has pulled it into the carb. Once the engine is warm, the coke off and the air filter refitted, you can tune it with the needle valve on the main jet. By ear you can find the ‘sweet spot’ between rich and weak. If you are going to use it for hard work, would screw the valve out by 1/8th turn.

Grahame

[davidbliss]

Graham
On some of those old carbs they just used a long screw that holds the air cleaner on if not screwed back in with the air filter off I have had them suck up fuel strait through that hole.

• This reply was modified 1 week, 5 days ago by davidbliss. Reason: missed word

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