Reply To: More motor triple questions.

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October 13, 2022 at 5:33 pm #40056
trusty220
Keymaster

So sorry for the delay, Will, but I was in Matlock yesterday and didn’t get back ’til late; high point of the day was a dinner of steak pie and chips with lashings of thick gravy all over it- a plateful and for only six quid! I think I may move to Matlock, I’m still dribbling thinking about it!

Anyway, your problem- part number of the lower sprocket is MBA6772 and it is secured to the end of the splined cylinder shaft with two setscrews that have square heads. If it’s missing teeth then I would suspect the alignment of the chain and top sprocket; the top sprocket is a one-piece assembly with a universal joint yoke on one end and a shaft that runs in roller bearings at the other end. End float of this shaft is handled by two bronze washers fitted at each side of the top casting- try reversing them if they have worn so that the unused back face is rubbing on the casting where the bearings fit.

The chain tensioner is a nylon slipper that is held against the chain by a spring which was never strong enough. As a back-up there was a bolt with a radiused head that could be adjusted to a position just behind the slipper, and I think it had a slot for a screwdriver on the end opposite the hexagon head so you could tell where the radius was in relation to the slipper. It shouldn’t be adjusted hard against the slipper, it’s really only there to take the oscillations out of the movement and it should also be slackened off as the cylinder to bottom blade adjustment is made, otherwise you end up stretching the chain, breaking the slipper and getting very messy with grease.

Talking about the cylinder adjusters, the genuine ones used to be a hollow tube with an internal thread (I think it was 3/8″ UNF), and the hole in the top used to have a plastic cap pushed into it. A good practice used to be to put a few squirts of engine oil down the tube every now and again to stop the threads rusting, but without the plastic caps the oil used to run out when you lift the cutters up to transport position so keep the caps on if you’ve still got them.

The walking stick levers always used to be quite a hefty pull to lift the front units and you may even need two hands to lift one. The front springs on the A-frames do take some of the weight and yours will undoubtedly have lost some of their strength but have a look at them to make sure that the ends of one or two haven’t snapped off- they used to break quite frequently and they were a pain to change- part numbers for these are MBB0248A for the right hand one, MBB0249A for the left hand.

I hope that helps- if you need anything else just ask. If I don’t reply very quickly I may be in Matlock again!