Vintage Horticultural and Garden Machinery Club

So an update, in case it is of use to anyone in the future.

Got new filters from guypartsandservice, ebay, who seems to stock a wide range Kohler parts.

So the first thing to get the engine running was to clean the points, a tiny piece of crude was all that was stopping it, it now start virtually first pull every time with very little effort.

My 13 year old and I stripped the brakes. I was told by the seller that the brakes weren’t brilliant. Actually they were completely seized solid! The actuators were seized, the pads not to bad and everything covered in rust. The brake rods were rusted to death so I made replacements. Got the wheels off, drilled out the countersunk screw holding the drum to the hub and used a gear puller, some heat and lots of wd40 to crack the drum from the hub. Once loosened they came off quite easily. The drums and the hub were wire brushed and painted, the actuator soaked in lubricant and gently teased back into action and once opened up wire brushed and cleaned till free working. The bell crank that works the two rear rods was removed, the guttered holes welded up and drilled to suit the new rods. Then all put back together. The only thing not replaced that I would have liked to was the rubber boots over the connection between the rod and the actuator, I was not sure where to even try for a replacement. Any ideas? Needless to say the brakes now work.

I have re-routed the exhaust, this being a briggs and stratton muffler I had picked up. Initially I had it discharging within the seat box that covers the engine, as I believed it had done originally. However I think this assumption was wrong as the whole cover, fuel tank and engine was getting hotter than I thought sensible. I had a look at some other images online and noticed a few that showed the exhaust attached to the rear chassis between the engine and the rear wheel. That is roughly where it is now sitting. I am still sure a better silencer would reduce the noise of the engine so will be getting a box type one soon.

The clutch and gear box assembly came off friday and the clutch was stripped and clean. The lugs on the plates are very very worn as were the slots in the casing, the whole thing also being covered in thick oily grime. Once cleaned a bit of gentle filing tidied up the lugs, but on re-assembly the nut holding the clutch on the shaft would not go back on. On inspection the thread had stripped out of the nut, but it appeared that the nut had been a different thread from the one on the shaft. The thread turned out to be a rather obscure form so after a bit of work in the lathe with a replacement nut and a suitable pitch tap we were back reassembling! Once together and back in the bonsor the difference was remarkable. Gear change with no crunching! Yesterday I rebuilt all the linkages on the gear lever train as these had over ½ an inch of slop in them, this and a bit of adjustment have actually got the lever sitting where it should when the gears are engaged.

I will take some photos and post them later in the week in case they are use to others int he future.

I have plans to use the truck with a Model Engineering group that I am involved with, who have just started building a new track. It will be interesting to see how it performs. I plan to make a log skid attachment to use in place of the tipping back, as much of the work involves felling and moving timber on the site.

The only major thing I still want to do is look at the adjustment of the carburettor, which I will hopefully get a hand with from a very knowledgeable friend once he is back from a holiday. Hopefully this will reduce the idling speed which I think is a bit high.

Hope this is of some help to folk

regards

Pete