Vintage Horticultural and Garden Machinery Club

Hi Ruben,

You may try this supplier https://howard-rotavator-spares.com/shop/ But I purchased an expensive clutch friction plate from them for a MkV Gem and the holes did not align with the drive plate. Got back to them, the reply was to tap the pins to fit as they were most probably bent. That was wrong, the pins were fine, it was the…[Read more]

Hi Mark,

Glad I can assist and hope the testing identifies the problem. Am unfamiliar with the machine or engine, but from the photos it looks like it has a Kettering ignition system where the ignition is run from the battery. The black wire goes from the ‘hot’ side of the points to the coil. You can test this with the multimeter and for tes…[Read more]

Hi, below is my standard advice for ignition testing for those who want to try to fix a machine themselves:

If you have not done it already, firstly I would remove the points, hone any pitting out from the contact surfaces, refit and set the gap to 0.015”, also clean all terminal connections. With the plug cap removed, hold the end of the HT l…[Read more]

This old dog leant a new trick. The problem with the Kohler ignition timing was twofold. Firstly, the manual’s instruction was incorrect. It stated that the points should start to open when the flywheel timing mark S was next to the armature plate mark and AFTER that, adjust the points gap to 0.020”. Yet this action altered the ignition tim…[Read more]

Hi Andy,

I do not know the model the armature plate and flywheel came from. I purchased a Clifford roteo with a Mk25c engine about 15 years ago. The vendor was honest and said he thought the coil had packed up and suggested an external coil from a Honda C50 could be rigged up as a fix. Did try, but through lack of knowledge I think I omitted…[Read more]

I had the opposite problem with a Barrowmix mixer that had a small Briggs and Stratton engine on it. I bought the mixer for the drum, as mine had started to rot away (tip, if you are going to store a mixer, do not leave any water in it). Thought I would get the engine going as it seemed like it had not had much work. Could get it to pop and…[Read more]

That is very interesting. Have a Hayter Condor mower fitted with a Kohler K181 engine that’s always been a pig to start. The automatic compression release does not operate on every pull of the cord. Or it kicks back. It used to burn oil for fun, so I took the engine apart and then got a pattern re-build kit from the USA. After a rebore I p…[Read more]

Great you have a spark. The screeching sound is from the loose ball bearings inside the retractable starter. The fix is to take it apart, clean the dirt out and reassemble DRY. You may have done this already though. The dirt in one of mine has worn the aluminium tracks and balls. Cleaning did help a lot, but it still screeches sometimes and…[Read more]

Concur with Andy, get a good spark first, then clean the carb thoroughly and fit a new diaphragm. Have fitted pattern ones and have had no problem with them. If the ignition is a points type, its not the best design. I get to them by using an air chisel with a point fitted and put it on the crankshaft end. A put a prybar behind the flywheel,…[Read more]

Bonjour Marc,

Une restauration fantastique, bien faite.

Meilleurs vœux,

Grahame

Hi John,

It looks like you have fixed it. This is my experience of them.

Over the years have had several leaking Ewarts fuel taps. Did once get some replacement corks, but they were poor quality, still got leaks. Have tried PTFE tape, nitrile cord, soaking the original corks in an oil/paraffin mix. Nothing really worked. Have had a couple…[Read more]

‘You pays your money and takes your choice’ with mag testing. A ‘Proper’ test rig would be one that can rotate a magneto, be able to measure the voltage and current output of both the primary and secondary coils. Ideally be able to view the sine waves on an oscilloscope and check the spark gap in air with a 3 probe adjustable tester. For fly…[Read more]

Hi David,

Great that with some more work you managed to get the carb to work well. From what I could see of the pictures you posted it looked like there were potential faults in the design. The float may have not moved freely up the central column, it could twist and then stick. How it pivoted against the needle meant it would not hit the…[Read more]

If you have not done it already, firstly I would remove the points, hone any pitting out from the contact surfaces, refit and set the gap to 0.015”, also clean all terminal connections. With the plug cap removed, hold the end of the HT lead 6mm from a clean part of the engine and see if there is a spark. If there is, you have fixed it, if not, c…[Read more]

Hi David,

Have thought several times of fitting a modern carb to an industrial engine. Bought a cheap Chinese copy for a Honda for around £12 and was amazed of the quality and how they could sell it for that amount. Am not a fan of some older type carburettors, they are quite crude in comparison to more modern versions. The float/needle…[Read more]

Dear David,

Fantastic descriptions and pictures of your precision engineering skills. You remind me of an old boy who does a few little jobs for me. He has made scale stationary, steam and aircraft engines from scratch. What he can do amazes me and he is in his eighties.

Without those abilities people like me have to try to work with what we…[Read more]

Hi William,

Am presuming the mower has a Briggs & Stratton engine. If so, I have found they sometimes need fine tuning with the mixture screw to run well. Have a 12HP model on a Ransomes Bobcat mower and even 1/8th of a turn on the screw can make a big difference. Do not think a normal compression tester is the best tool to use on hand start…[Read more]

Hi David,

My Villiers engined Alcon pump is definitely 1½”. It does have a model number on it. I got it from a retiring market gardener, who sold me all the delivery and suction hoses too. It ran poorly, so I did my usual top end, points and carb service, it then ran well. It was noisy though under load and drank fuel. The Honda GX160 is a…[Read more]

Hi David,

Have a 1½” Alcon pump powered by the Villiers engine. Got it in the 1980’s and used it for irrigation. But then got sprinker rotor heads that needed a higher pressure (30 – 35 psi) than my original ones. The pump also started to take an age to prime. Fitted a new seal kit I got from Vulcan Water Pump Seals, it improved the suct…[Read more]

Hi Will,

Many thanks for that. Cox and Turner is one of the suppliers I have for parts and they are usually my first port of call for engine spares. Can get rings a bit cheaper from a manufacturer, but prefer to use Cox and Turner because they are fellow enthusiasts.

Have fitted new rings and ground in the valves on many engines. But some I…[Read more]