[hitchinsm]

Number of points; do not get yourself fixated on modifying the choke plate. If it was a generator or pump with a throttle and choke combined I would think about it, but as it is a Wheel horse with a manual choke do not bother. In all honesty quite a lot of them fire right up on tick over without any choke at all.
Remember the old ad-age; the majority of fuel problems are electrical. Make sure the points and condenser are ok and the ignition timing is correct. You have already received some good advice on the valves. Before you start taking the engine to bits too much, re-set the valve clearances. Too often valve clearances are ignored, the valves hammer in and have no clearance, make absolutely certain that the engine is on TDC when you set them (Top Dead Centre)
If you have access to a cylinder leakage tester this will allow you to hear if any air is passing the valve seats, a tiny bit is normal.
I am assuming this is a K or M series engine, that being the case it will have a Kohler or WALBRO carburettor fitted which are all copies if the original Carter carb. The WALBRO is different in many ways due to the emission controls incorporated into it, that being said the best way to describe these carbs is simple and crude. The main issue is that they do not have an accelerator pump which would shoot a small amount of fuel into the engine intake when you open the throttle stopping the hesitation which is caused by the sudden opening of the throttle making the mixture go lean. Anyone who has owned a Ford Cortina or Capri circa 1968 to 1975 will know all about this, in reality it over fuels the engine for second, creating emissions that are not wanted.
The last but important thing to remember is that K and M series do not like the mixture lean or having the ignition advanced. Depending on which cylinder head you have a nice hole about ¾ inch diameter will burn through the top of the piston.

[hitchinsm]

As of today I have sold and fitted well over a 1000 of these gimmicks. When I turn up to a non starter I do not waste a micro second on the points and condenser I just change them straight over to electronic ignition, easier starting, smoother running, ignition timing automatically set and no kicking back. Takes less time to fit than changing the points and condenser as well as most importantly, reliable, fit and forget part.

[hitchinsm]

Can you Identify the engine, I can obtain carbs at sensible prices for GX-120 thru to GX390

[hitchinsm]

Hi, whilst out looking at the flooding I went to a farm to ask permission to cross the farmers land and there sat in the barn was one of these and a few other interesting bits of kit. I will go back next week and get some pictures.

[hitchinsm]

over 60 K301’s in stock, varying from rebuilt to as is.Easily exported to India and the pacific rim, they love them as long as they are converted to electronic ignition.

Regards Mike

[hitchinsm]

I need all of them or the old silencer to work from, you cannot take a guess at the measurements.

To put this into context. I have wasted hundreds of hours buying in and modifying exhaust silencers. I have now sourced all the mild steel parts which are laser cut to put them together myself in 4″, 5″ and 6″ dia round silencer box. I then bend, cut and put whatever size and length inlet and outlet pipes you need in and TIG weld the whole thing together. I actually had a company that had a go at doing it for us but they could not cope with all the variations and apart from that the welding was crap.

Regards Mike

[hitchinsm]

I need the measurements, from the picture it is obviously a twin cylinder. I keep all the parts to make all the different variations up, they usually work out between £40 to £50 worst case.

Regards Mike

[hitchinsm]

Send me the measurements and a picture, I keep all the standard ones in stock.

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