New Rotavator Mountfield M1 probably

[coxey1979]

Hi all and thank you for letting me join the forum, I will be subscribing soon. I have used my grand parents Merry Tillers in the past and have just picked up what I believe to be a M1 the chassis plate only has the stamped numbers visible the rest of the paint is almost nonexistent 18585 and the engine number is hard to read but believe it is 100902-034901-7504-0206 (some of the zeros and sixes could the other)

It works with a bit of easy start in the carb, it has had the muffler replaced with a modern B&S (embossed logo outline) It needs new belts,pulley cover/shroud and I want a carb kit but I am having trouble identifying which engine and carb I have, I have included pictures of the carb without the flat filter on.

Any help will be appreciated, so that I can restore and use this machine. I have already found the manual links in another post

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[coxey1979]

I have managed to work out my engine and carb etc, still don’t know what the variant of the frame is.

some closer inspections have revealed that there are some leaks around the engine and one of the rotor drive shafts. I have sourced a NOS full gasket kit and identified the bearing (in the manual that has clutch on handle)as rls8 but get nothing for the mountfield part number are they the same on them all?
the muffler has bee replaced as said before and is low profile so leaving soot and deposits on the deck can you still get the “tin can” mufflers with thread as the exhaust bore is threaded?

I would like it to look as original as possible the original mountfield paint looks like a howard orange rather than the mountfield red, does anyone know what the RAL or BSP numbers would be or should i just use mountfield red?

cheers, Mike

[charlie]

If you know the dimensions of the bearing try Simply Bearings, I have had good service from them and you can find bearings by entering the dimensions, same for oil seals.

[coxey1979]

Thanks Charlie, I’ve looked at them from one of your other replies, I suppose I am going to have to strip it down and measure everything and try and go from there. It’s Strange there is very little information on the M1’s yet the Merry tillers and Howard’s landmasters etc have loads of information on there variants.
I will start stripping and post my progress
Take care and stay safe,
Mike

[wristpin]

Your eng8ne numbers suggest a 1975 machine. I’ve probably got a parts manual for it but an image of the whole machine will be useful before I spend time scanning it as there were two versions. On the early machines a lever slid the engine to engage the drive while on the later ones the engine was fixed and the drive was engaged by a cable operated jockey pulley.

[coxey1979]

Hi Wristpin I have the earlier model with the sliding engine, that’s why I have been struggling, a few pictures of the early red ones, even few of the green ones but loads of information and pictures of the jockey wheel models and gardeners. Why couldn’t Mountfield just call them M1 A,B,C ETC????
I would greatly appreciate any literature you have Wristpin.
Thank you , stay safe and take care, Mike

[wristpin]

This is the best that I can find. Despite it showing a fixed engine, cable operated machine on the first page, the rest is sliding engine.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ea4zkfv4wfcogqm/Mountfield%20M1%20Cultivator0001.pdf?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dcgbi3frr4honkm/Mountfield%20Cultivator%20Belts0002.pdf?dl=0

[coxey1979]

WOW Wristspin. the parts manual is the same as the one as on allotment garden that is linked on this site HOWEVER yours is SO much better you can see all of the components on the diagrams and the belts part list is a welcome bonus. Thank you thank you so much.
Take care and stay safe, Mike

[hillsider]

Hello I thought it might help you to know the parts that I used on my own Mountfield M1 to repair it’s wobbly drive shaft and leaking oil seals, you will need to dismantle your machine in order to double check bearing and seal sizes before ordering any parts just in case your machine is different to mine.

You may find that the shaft seals on your machine if like mine will be a single lip seal housed in a Brass housing, as this part is no longer available I found Rubber cased seals that suited the inner an outer diameters and fitted two seals back to back on each side, the inner seal is fitted correctly to keep lube in and the outer one is reversed to keep the dirt out.
You will need to fit the thrust washers as needed on your machine.

All parts were ordered from Simply Bearings you will need to order the following: –

Drive shaft bearings – 1 pack of 2 AJ 1620-18 Oil filled Bronze Flanged Bushes.

Shaft Seals – Four of – 1 X 1.5 X 0.25inch Nitrile Rubber Shaft seals with garter springs No R23/TC

Thrust washers – 1 pack of 2 series AS 25 X 42 X 1mm thick thrust washers.

Hope this helps your project but do please check before ordering that these parts will fit your gear housing
Ray.

[coxey1979]

HI Ray,

Thank you for your advice I have managed to clean the bearings enough to read the following stamped on the seal/bearing ENGLAND WESTON W 105010045 RF .6 (BB in subscript) Google brings up nothing except some rod end bearings which look wrong.
Do I need to split the gear housing to remove the bearings?
I’m itching to start stripping this lovely old machine down but waiting on my landlord to fix a my leaking garage roof as I don’t have enough room in my woodwork shop. It’s only been over a year!!!! I have a tarp over everything inside and periodically run the water off. It’s too cold and wet to be working outside on restoration like this and I need her ready for February to get my deep bed made.

Thanks again , take care and stay safe, Mike

[hillsider]

Re the original seals you have been very lucky to find identification numbers, if you search Weston Seals you will find some history of the company but like you I had no luck searching the seal numbers.
To access the bearings and to remove the seals you will most certainly need to dismantle the gearbox, when you remove the drive shaft do be careful to keep the shaft and worm wheel facing in the same way that it was removed.

[Author]

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