Howard Bantam – Villiers Mark 15 Engine – Not running properly

[wristpin]

It may be “process of elimination” check the timing is correct. It’s far better to remove the cylinder head to do this , the points should just begin to crack open at 1/8″ BTDC.

My manuals dated Sept 56 and March 60 say 1/8″ and the ones dated Aug 54 and Jan 55 say 3/16″
Always reassuring !!
They do all agree on the points gap though!

[andyfrost]

Angus , being fitted with the s12 carb would mean it’s a later model , hence 1/8″ timing.

Andy.

[wristpin]

being fitted with the s12 carb would mean it’s a later model , hence 1/8″ timing.

I have a feeling that the plot may get slightly more complicated as one manual with the 1/8″ timing lists a Villiers Junior carb and the other A B10 or Type V.
Is the clue in the OP’s description of the engine being a Mk15HS (High Speed) which none of my manuals cares to mention? Faced with a Mk15 minus its ID plate, what distinguishes it as an HS?

[andyfrost]

HS being the later version ,Villiers effort for a shade more power, all HS models should be timed 1/8″.In reality as far as I’m aware there is no difference between the standard model and the early HS models as far as internals are concerned , later HS were fitted with the later style of flywheel and magneto.

Andy.

[charlie]

I have been told the HS has a larger sump. I will have to dig out parts books and see.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi Andy,
I have got round to doing some more checks on the Villiers 15HS engine.
I removed the cylinder Head – Valves ok – normal build up of carbon on the valves.
Top of the piston had a sticky tarry looking layer it – it wiped off with some white spirits.
The bore looked ok although as you manually turned the engine over there seemed to be a trace of oil being wiped above the piston so possibly the rings need replacing? It did smoke a bit but could be unburned fuel and carbon mix due to the timing issue?

Got the points visible and rotated the flywheel.
Points where just opening with the piston about 7/16″ BTDC so timing does seem to be out.

I have removed the flywheel rotor.
Couple of questions:
The sprung tin lube pad was missing – broken off – should I replace?
The points had a typical small peak and crater but not excessive and can stone off to make more flush.
The crank oil seal E.9718 on the parts list in the armature plate has been leaking.(picture added already cleaned oil off back plate) Is this easy to replace as the bearing needs pulling out first?
While I have the rotor off and armature plate off:
Can you advise where to get the following:
New Condensor
Sprung tin lube pad replacement
Shall I change the points?
New oil seals both mag and drive side?
Spark plug recommended – what equivalent to the Parts list – Lodge C.14?

Thanks again for your comments and advice.
Steve

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Sorry the points opened at 7/32 BTDC not 7/16 BTDC…that would be a long way out!

[andyfrost]

Paul Childs at Meetens will sort you all the parts you need , but they will not come cheap!!!
As for replacing seals etc. , it all depends on whether you want to get it in really tip top condition , or just running, provided that oil isn’t pouring out they will last for years. Cleaning the breather may improve this.

Andy.

[charlie]

Villiersparts is a good alternative source of parts.

[Author]

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