Howard 220 with aspera engine

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello , does any one know how to set up the carb on a aspera engine, it has a dellorto FHC 2013a carb, this is a replacement carb as the original was water damaged and the idle jet sizied, and if these engines are trouble as I have not seen another Howard with one, it is a nice little machine over than the engine.
thanks stew

[vhgmcbuddy]

These engine were as a general rule awfull, very occasionally you’d get a good one but not often. To set up the majority of carbs, carefully wind the jet onto its seat then out one and a half turns. Start it up and make minor tweaks until it runs smoothly through the range. My 220 by the way is not reliable to start, runs fine once going but can be impossible at times to fire up.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello. I have a Howard 220 a two garden masters with Aspera engines, If you alter the idle screw to obtain a smooth tick over then adjust the main jet screw at the bottom of the bowl to get a smooth running high revs. I will have a look at the numbers on my carb tomorrow, your engine is probably a Asprea H35. Some of these carbs had a fix jet.

[wristpin]

These engine were as a general rule awfull, very occasionally you’d get a good one but not often.

Think that you are being just a touch hard on the poor old Aspera although it has to be acknowledged that they were not as bullet proof as Briggs etc. One thing for certain is that they didn’t tolerate poor maintenance, particularly bad valve seating and gapping. Unless the valves are in good order you can fiddle around with carb settings all day to no good effect. Bite the bullet and reface and reseat the valves and reset the gaps. Be particularly careful that when setting the exhaust valve clearance the valve is well clear of the automatic compression release.
Another area to watch out for is warped carburettor/inlet manifold flanges allowing air leaks. More prevalent on vertical shaft engines but worth a check all the same.

[darmic1]

Were they the same engine as Tecumseh? Didnt they also have problems with conrod failure, if used at low revs for longer periods the dip/splash lubrication wasnt sufficient. They also didnt have any white metal bearing as such, the alloy conrod fitted straight on the crank.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I totally agree with what wrist pin says about valves etc, however I’ve been over mine with a fine tooth Combe yet still can not turn it into a reliable starter. I’ve had an awfull lot of bad experiences with aspera/ techusmech on the whole caused by poor quality control/inferior materials in the factory. For show keep it original, if however you intend to use it instead, fit a Briggs,or Villiers etc.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Trying to upload pic but having problems.

[wristpin]

Were they the same engine as Tecumseh? Didnt they also have problems with conrod failure, if used at low revs for longer periods the dip/splash lubrication wasnt sufficient. They also didnt have any white metal bearing as such, the alloy conrod fitted straight on the crank.

Their con rods ran straight onto the crank with no separate shell, but so did Briggs and both used splash lub on their horizontal crank engines. My experience was that so long as the oil level was kept up to the mark Aspera/Tecumseh/Tecnamotor were ok. Way back I ran a Webb 24 with a trailed roller seat mowing over half an acre a week for several years with no trouble.
On the question of valves I would just say that although an Aspera lump may appear to have good compression etc it’s amazing what a difference a perfectly sealing and set up valve train makes.
As the author of one of my favourite small engine publications says ” the technician who is valve critical will always have a better record of success than one who takes a near enough approach”

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello. Had a look at my 220 carb, same FHC 2013 with out the a. Another point is the fuel level in the bowl. This is coped from a manual.
All Tecumseh carburetors with an adjustable float require
the correct float height to achieve the proper operation
and easy engine starts. To check the float height, hold the
carburetor in an upside down position. Remove the bowl
nut, float bowl, and “O” ring. Place an 11/64″ (4.36 mm)
diameter drill bit across the top of the carburetor casting
on the opposite side and parallel to the float hinge pin
(diag. 39). The float must just touch the drill bit when the
bit is flush with the edge of the float. If the float is too high
or too low, adjust the height by bending the tab
accordingly. If the required adjustment is minor, the tab
adjustment may be made without removing the float and
carefully inserting a small bladed screwdriver to bend the
tab.
Float sticking can occur due to deposits or when the fuel
tank is filled for the first time, this condition can be quickly
corrected by loosening the carburetor bowl nut one full
turn. Turn the bowl 1/4 turn in either direction, then return
the bowl to its original position and tighten the bowl nut.
If you google search Tecumseh manual, you will see 3 to 11hp L-Head engines, click on it

[sidevalve44]

This post reminded me of a photo I took in 1976 when working for Handy Garden Machinery in Swindon. Yep, you’ve guessed it, it’s the shattered innards of an Aspera engine !

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you for all the help,I have had a play with it and can get it to cough, so of to have bit more of a play,don’t want to change the engine as it is original and in nice condition, will try post pictures later,

Do any of you use lead replacement products like redex? As am I right in thinking these engine would of been made for four star fuel?

[charlie]

I use Castrol Valvemaster lead replacement available from Halfords and Ethomix from Frost Restoration this helps prevent gumming and some of the other problems caused by ethanol. For more about these and other additives see FBHVC Fuel Information

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