Flymo DM rotavator

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hi, its Callum (Originally ‘Les Wilson’ on the old forum) with the Wolseley 16 tractor.
I’ve acquired a new project to fix up.
I’m close to completing the flymo rotavator but having problems getting a spark from the 3hp B&S engine, stopping me from trying to start it.
I had a spark before restoration but as always once I’d finished the restoration I had no spark.
I have new spark plugs and cleaned up the spark plug wire but still no spark?
I am also curious about one wire which I can’t figure out where it was originally (See picture).
Was it a kill switch?

Thanks, Callum

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[trusty220]

The first picture with the writing on looks like the wire should go to a kill switch that is activated by the throttle arm. They usually have a four position throttle that goes from Choke> Fast Idle> Tick over> Stop.
The wire should be live whilst the engine is running and it is earthed out by the throttle lever when the lever reaches the end of it’s travel. It should be fitted through the hole in the plate shown on your photo- first you push the plate away from you so that the bit with the hole in comes through the slot in the plate, you then pass the end of the wire through the hole and release the plate and it should grip the wire.
You must make sure that the assembly is electrically isolated from the rest of the engine, otherwise you won’t get a spark. To test for a spark you can disconnect the wire and put some tape over the exposed end; that will rule out the stop wire or it’s mounting.

[vhgmcbuddy]

It will prob be the points under the flywheel which will be your prob. You will have to remove it to get to them

Did you ever finish your tractor??

[will-haggle]

On Briggs engines, it’s a good idea to clean the magnets, then reset the gap under the coil by using a bit of thin card, if you don’t get a spark after doing the points and the wire….

[wristpin]

“To test for a spark you can disconnect the wire and put some tape over the exposed end; that will rule out the stop wire or it’s mounting.”

OK as far as it goes but I have known the kill wire to be earthing out at some point along its length so to be 100% sure, disconnect it from the coil. If you do have to remove the flywheel don’t be tempted to smack the end of the crank with a steel hammer as the slightest bit of distortion or swelling of the part that the starter clutch runs on will cause problems. Preferably don’t hit it at all but if “needs must” use a copper hammer.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thankyou everyone for the replies, I will take a look and try figure it out. And Dieselhead, its still an on-going project but should be garaged again by this winter then I can finally put the body panels on and make the finishing touches. My tractor has got a replacement engine fitted (as you know I had many problems finding a replacement, they are like finding chickens teeth!) but is still an original 16hp B&S single cylinder engine and we’ve had it driving under its own steam (as it were) in the garden haha. We had a new brake disc made as we couldn’t find the original but should do just fine. So it is near completion but things are holding me back at the moment with it not being garaged and other stuff (Exams, Revision and time etc)
– Callum

[sidevalve44]

Assuming the coil is OK, don’t waste time replacing the points, fit a Magnetron breakerless kit Pt No. 394970 (£23.70 from Briggsbits). It’s easy to fit (even I managed it !), you can leave the points insitu (after snipping the wires) and never have to worry about them again.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for the info ‘sidevalve44’ ,i may just have to do that haha

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