drive pinion on a Ransomes Marquis

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello,
The drive pinion on my Ransomes Marquis is broken and I want to replace it. However I don’t succeed in taking off the broken one.
Can somebody help me?
Thank you,

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[stuart]

I guess its threaded on.It may be a LH thread so try turning it clockwise and see if it,ll come of.Some heat on it will help too.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I thought it was a conical /bevel-roller bearing.
So I needed the tools on the picture.

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[wristpin]

It’s screwed on with a conventional right hand thread so that it tightens under drive. A bit of heat will help but they can be very tight. However as the sprocket is already damaged the job is made easier – you can grip or with the biggest stilsons that you can muster without fear of expensive damage . A second set of stilsons on the shaft and plenty of grunt!
If you don’t already know, the driven sprocket on the cutting cylinder is left hand thread -again, so that it tightens under drive.

[hillsider]

Shocking the broken sprocket with a hammer and a punch could help it to slacken but you would need to ensure that the shaft was held securely with a large pair of stillsons.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you very mutch, it was screwed and I got it off the shaft.
I also got it from my spare shaft, But as you can see on the picture there is one “ball” missing on the bearing. Is that a problem?
If so, how can I take the bearing from my spare shaft.
Thank you

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[vhgmcbuddy]

Now I found out that the bearing misses a ball and is blocked. My spare-bearing doesn’t fit. Where can I buy one – for a Ransomes Marquis MK 5M.

Thank you

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[wristpin]

The M in the Mk5M tells you that it’s probably a metric bearing . I say probably because it’s not unknown for machines to be “cut and shut” over the years and someone may have fitter an imperial bearing and holder at some poit. In fact your spare shaft assembly may have come from an imperial machine.
When you get the bearing out you may find the size imprinted in the outer race. If it’s imperial it’s probably an RL5 or RLS5. If it’s metric possibly a 1203 or 6203.
To get your good sprocket off without damaging it you will either need grips or a stilsons that are thin enough to grip on the boss behind the toothed part or devise a way of gripping the toothed part without damaging it. Having worked on dozens of Marqueses over the years I made a long bar with a bit of quarter plate welded to the end with four pins that engaged the teeth of the sprocket – spreading the load over four teeth.
A commercially available chain wrench or even a short length of chain wrapped around the sprocket and then gripped with stilsons are other options.
The bearing itself is a light interference fit on the shaft and can be removed with one of your legged pullers.

[hortiman]

Hi there.
You should be able to obtain the necessary parts from Jon Cruse, The Mower centre, Hailsham, East Sussex. he has vast stocks of obsolete and hard to find parts for oldar machines. (01323 843447) daytime, or through his website.
Chris

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you.
I did find the bearing 1203 and replaced both. It works.

But now I have another problem:
There’s a knocking noise coming from the flywheel.
It seems that the drive shaft from the engine isn’t fixed for 100% to the flywheel.
if you turn the flywheel for a few millimetre, the drive shaft isn’t turning.
Screw nr 3 on the flywheel seems not to be tightened for 100%, when i tighten the screw
there no knocking noise anymore for 1 minute, then it comes back.
Changing the screw nr 3 and nr 2 doesn’t help.
How can I fix this?
Thank you.

Picture expl:
1 – drive shaft
2 – screw
3 – screw
4 – flywheel

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[wristpin]

Guess that it’s been running with the flywheel loose and that it’s flogged on the key. Hopefully the damage is confined to the key itself and not either the key way in the crank or flywheel.
Get a new key – you can probably get a length of “key steel” from your bearing supplier – and cut it to take up the full length of the key ways. Key steel comes in both metric and imperial sizes – the Briggs engine will be imperial and I’m guessing 3/16 square.
Offer up the flywheel and see if the movement has been eliminated. If it has, put a drop of Loctite on each grub screw and tighten hard.
If the new key has not eliminated the slop there are two options. The easiest is to get some Loctite Bearing Fit and apply it to the bore of the flywheel, assemble the whole thing and leave it overnight before running . Hopefully that will have done the trick.
The second option requires a bit more skill and work and is to make an oversized key to eliminate the slop . I haven’t got any here to measure but you may find that the metric equivalent of 3/16 is a bit oversize and will do the job but S**s law says it will be undersize. You may have to start oversize and dress it with a flat file until it’s a snug fit.
Let’s hope that a new standard key and Loctite does the trick!!

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thank you once more for your help!

I used this machine for 1 year and it was absolutely running fine.
All of a sudden the knocking began.

To take apart the flywheel, do I dismantle the drive shaft+clutch?
How can I take the flywheel?

Thank you.

[hillsider]

The easiest route to get to the loose clutch flywheel is to remove the four engine fixing bolts taking care to watch for any pieces of packing that may sit between the engine and the bed plate. Then slide engine away from the drive shaft. You should the be able to see problem.

The advice given by wristpin is the exactly the way to go.

[vhgmcbuddy]

I removed the engine from te mower, and took some pictures.

The key seems to fit on the flywheel but not on the engine’s output shaft.
You can easily move it, it seems to small.
Is it a wrong key?

I have a spare Marquis but with a BSA engine, I could take that key if it fits.

“picture 1”: the keyway on the engine’s output shaft.
It doesn’t seem damaged to me.

“picture 2”: the key in the flywheel.

“picture 3”: the key with its sizes. 4,4mm x 4,4mm x 44,3mm,
if you look closely you’ll see it has a bit of damage of the screw

“picture 4”: the key on the engine’s output shaft.
It doesn’t fit for 100%, it is a little loose, easy to move.

“picture 5”: the flywheel cleaned.

Thank you,

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[wristpin]

Your BSA has a tapered crank, no key.
Everything else is covered in my previous detailed post.
Get a new 3/16″ (decimal 1875″) square key and go from there.

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