can anyone identify this tiller?

[stevejay]

Hi

purchased this tiller – cannot find this anywhere online and i am after ddetails etc… any help gratefully received

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[alan]

An interesting machine!

There seems to be very little information on the internet. However, from what I have seen, I assume that the tiller is the Bronco brand, possibly with an address in Villareal, Spain?

Do you have any further details which may narrow down the search?

I see that there is an ID plate on the engine. What are the details on that plate, such as make and horsepower.

What size are the wheels?

[alan]

Also, to the right of the Bronco name on the casting it says J.S. and then a number. What is that number?

[stevejay]

Hi Alan

thanks for the help. Yes it is in my Spanish home (may bring it back to Uk) It does say Bronco but i cannot see anything on the Troy_bilt website and the logo doesn’t show anywhere. The plate is completely bleached except a serial number (3213050). The tyres have pirelli TM40 6-12 on them and the casting shows J.S. 450 D – i addume the D is for diesel.
since the post i have come to the conclusion that the word above BRONCO on the trailer may be MOTOAZADA – which is Spanish for MOTOR HOE.

there is also a tiller attachment that i have to pick up but i havent got that yet

Any help?

[alan]

Thanks for the extra details.

If any members want to correct the following information, then please do so! Info is a bit scarce and hard to search for.

Indeed, the USA company Troy-Bilt uses the Bronco model name – although, as far as I can tell, there’s no connection between them and your machine. It really muddled things when I were doing searches! (as did searches bringing up the Ford Bronco).

Bronco was a make of two-wheel models in Spain, but I cannot find any dates when they were active. The company is reported to have had an address on Valencia street, Villareal, Castello.

There are some models relating to Bronco. These seem to include models from 2 – 10 hp (perhaps more), with the model numbers E, G, H, JS200, JS250 (Villiers-powered), JS325, JS450, JS150, and JS250 (2-stroke). I’m assuming that there is a mixture of petrol and diesel models in there. There might be additional models.

So the castings on your machine say it is a Bronco JS450, with a diesel engine. I have no idea of Lombardini engines, but I’ve looked at images on Google and from purely visual match it could be an Italian-made Lombardini LDA450 engine. In an ideal world it would be good if the engine ID plate had not faded.

The Bronco JS450 is stated as having three forward gears and one reverse. Tyres shown as 6.00×12.

Does any of this info tally with your machine?

Do any members have knowledge of Lombardini engines?

[sidevalve5]

I was given a fingerbar mower with a Lombardini IM 250 on it. Something had broken in the gearbox, it would have required expensive machining to fix it, so I took off the parts I wanted and scrapped the rest. The engine ran beautifully, I still have it and at 6.5hp I may fit it to another machine one day. The only downside is the drive shaft is tapered, I cannot find a pulley with a taper bore. So am going to have to get something turned to fit on it to convert it to a parallel shaft. I have downloaded the engine manual, but it’s all in Italian. If there is something you need to know, you can get selected text translated online. If someone wants a copy of the manual, please message me.

[andyfrost]

Grahame , crankshaft converters are readily avaiable online.

Andy.

[sidevalve5]

I did a search and found some taper adaptors, but none fitted. I need 22.5mm ID for the largest hole, going down a 1:5 taper over 23mm. The easiest solution is to get something turned. Am not going to get into a ding dong battle over taper adaptor suppliers. I believe this forum is for constructive comments only.

[andyfrost]

Grahame , sorry was unaware of your sizes , I’ve used the more common sizes on Hondas Briggs etc. , and they work really well.

Andy.

[davidbliss]

Grahame, I have had severals things to make conversions for and with parallel inner up to a shoulder and tapered outer and split to work, that could be to save a nasty accident. if working in opposite with tapered inner and keyed the outer but if you split the bush it works even better as long as the driven part has a good strong boss. On some early cars? well can think of one in the late 1960s used rear wheel hubs sitting on parallel shafts. It didn’t work in the early cars so never worked in the later ones ether and it stressed the threaded part of the stub by bending until it breaks and wheel takes a hike and if the brake drum was with it even more excitement as no braking. 1905 Rover all suffer, with slightly different as has to have part taper as outer part not strong enough to take the stress and if kept to a shallow taper would be very difficult to pull off in the future, so shaft needed to be held tight but not to stress other parts. So its a good safe repair if thought out.

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[Author]

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