Simar Rototiller.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Hello Everyone,
Yesterday we were given a Simar 56A Rototiller, serial number 560204, it’s not been running for over 25 years, but we’ve got it to run in a fashion, could someone help us out with a few things please.
Can anyone date it.
Can anyone tell us the basic carb settings, as it runs but not as good as the ones on U tube.
The L/H wheel has a peg with 2 grooves in it giving it low forward and reverse, if you move it to the R/H wheel it gives high forward and reverse, is this correct ?

Many Thanks, Ian & Anthony.

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[jtg1]

that doesn’t look like the original carb,

[roatavator]

Hi Ian and Anthony
Charlie will be able to date accurately from Monro records, but judging from mine, fairly early one , 1949/50 I’d guess.
The carb isn’t like mine but SIMARs were fitted with AMAL carbs. I might be tempted to check timing and magneto before fiddling with carb. I have the timing info. I can send it if you pm me your email address.

[charlie]

560204 was delivered on 11-5-49 toG P Skripka, Smallholding, Sandy Lane, Billingham, Co Durham. Certainly not the original carb. When you say it does not sound like others, is it 4 stroking? Exhaust is not original either.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Many thanks to the people who have taken the time to comment.
We think we’ve found it’s running problem tonight, the needle that goes up and down when you use the throttle lever was loose as it has come out of its fixing clip. The needle has 3 grooves in it, I plumbed for the middle one, but it needs to be in the top one as it won’t go to tick over even with the tick over screw backed off & now the mixture screw works. So hopefully a bit more tinkering and she’ll run like a goodun.
The only thing now is can anybody tell us about the peg in the wheels ?

Many Thanks, Ian and Anthony.

[roatavator]

Hi chaps
Glad you have got to the bottom of the problem. If it runs ok possibly best not to fiddle with mag as from personal experience they can be difficult to adjust!
Yes, you are right about the pegs. The long one is the one that engages, the short one is a blank to stop soil getting in the hole. If the long one won’t easily engage when you want to swap them over, push it in as far as you can then lift machine up by handlebars while pushing on peg and it should go in.
There are two red sprung pawls on the outside rim of the inner part of the wheels which transfer the forward motion from the inner rim. I find these are best left engaged when working. Reverse motion is transferred by the hinged pawls. If you just engage one of these it will provide reverse to the selected wheel which assists turning round at the ends of the working rows.
Peter

[vhgmcbuddy]

Many Thanks for the information Peter, it’s much appreciated,

Thanks Ian & Anthony

[charlie]

There is a very good French website for SIMAR which includes a copy of the manual for the 35 & 56 page 14 shows ratchets and pawls etc.

[vhgmcbuddy]

Thanks for that information Charlie, it will be very helpful.

[Author]

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