The idea is to restore it to a reasonable appearance and good usable condition, and use it.

This is what I have:

I’ll be able to have a closer look when I pick it up, assuming I can get it in my little van.

Is it (or should it be…) a reasonably easy job to get the handles off?

I guess that it might be possible to remove the cutting bar, but I’m unsure how much space that would give. Might another…[Read more]

Also, what’s a favourite engine (two/four stroke, model) and why?

Any help much appreciated!

The clutch friction material is still in place, stuck to the aluminium alloy inner with chemical metal, which is good. However, too much grease on the splines (or perhaps in the bearing) has led to the wholelot…[Read more]

A 27mm socket made an ideal “special tool” to use for pressing.

The inner seemed to have been installed rather clumsily (from new I guess) being rather distorted, the metal insert being dented on its face; the outer was considerably worn, the inside diameter being 0.063 larger than the inner seal’s inner…[Read more]

Wmtbearings have an imperial seal, saying: “This seal is 1.3/4 = 44.45mm”, but don’t say whether it’s one per side or two, or whether single lip or double.…[Read more]

The “legality of driving/pushing pedestrian controlled machines along the pavement” article I thought probably ought to go in the “Pedestrian operated machines” subforum for general interest, as I guess people occasionally do this. I’d spent quite a bit of time looking at parts…[Read more]

I can’t. PMs are not allowed unless I pay.

I also can’t ask about my “pending moderation” question in another thread (awaiting approval) about the…[Read more]

The Service & Repair manual says, about oil seals (parphrasing), “Up until S/N 3151725 rotor bearing housing 64355 was fitted with two oilseals INAG 30 x 37 x 4 per housing. These seals were superseded by a double…[Read more]

I have asked in another thread (awaiting approval) about the legality of driving/pushing pedestrian controlled machines along the pavement. I don’t want to get in trouble!

I live about 350yds from this machine. If I…[Read more]

Perhaps it’s compost, though.

Whether it turns over or not is anyone’s guess. A good sign is that there’s still a sparking plug…[Read more]

This one I have found out of doors, at least slightly covered by some rotting tarmaulin, all wodged and piled up on top with the handlebars sticking out and even less completely covered. I have not looked at it closely. There does not seem to be any…[Read more]

Looking at the stuff that came from North Cornwall, there are various attachments. Not at all sure they’re for Howard 350s.

Any ideas what these are?

Currently the main jet is set 1 3/4 turns out, the idle jet 2 1/4 turns out, not that it’s particularly a fixed setting, even from new (although I don’t think I have ever…[Read more]

Problem: rebuilt clutch would not disengage.

I had re-glued the clutch friction material exactly, I thought, where it came off (distortions in the material back this up, and that the ends of the friction material met as they originally did). The clutch material…[Read more]

Is this normal? Is it something to do with the automatic decompressor mechanism?

How worn is too worn?

I’ll look out for some Flexoid. I might have some steam gasget at another place but I’ll have to go looking.

Again FWIW and for the…[Read more]

Anyway, yes, I’ve ordered a new head gasket. No chance or re-using the old one, I suppose? It’s not solid…[Read more]

Took the clutch apart, using the opportunity to re-pack the bearings with grease.

I scraped off the outer surface of the friction material, taking care, it’s probably fragile. I also cleaned the cast iron outer cone, and the inside surface if the friction material, scraping gluey residue off, and the…[Read more]

Took the clutch apart, to grease the bearings and splines. There’s enough friction material, BUT there’s powdery white corrosion on the light alloy inner cone, and the lining, which should be glued to that, has…[Read more]

The former has bolts, which I managed to get out… eventually. The latter has studs.

Ho hum. I have purchased a bag of 10 5/16 x 1 3/4 BZP “grade 5” (8.8 equiv) bolts…[Read more]

Standard seem to be 8.8 steel, not BZP, partly threaded.

I have some old-fashioned Rocol anti-seize compound J166 to put on the…[Read more]

The magnetic rotor should be OK. After all, it works, and magnets don’t “come and go”. The cast iron blower/flywheel is a good fit, it…[Read more]

I took a picture of the electronic ignition module that’s fitted. It’s similar, as said before, to the chevroned article pictured above. I guess they all work the same way. I have ordered a…[Read more]

I’m rather reluctant to take the thing apart again unless vital, the threads are bad bad bad, as I’d like the machine to do one job in the next couple of weeks before dealing with it.

Anyway.

There are no connections

at all

to the points, only a wire cut off at the exit through the grommet of the…[Read more]